Cat Stops Pooping in Box

Dear Greyce,

I am 18 months old and live in a home that already has a cat (female) my age and a dog. I am happy and playful and love sitting on purrsons. Lately I've become skittish - for no apparent reason that anyone can discern. However I have stopped using the litter box as a place in which to poop.
Can you help me?


The Mystery Pooper

Aggression Between Cats: Update on Ziggy & Pearl

Dear Greyce,

We have tried two of your suggestions already.

First, Herself now intervenes within the first 30 seconds of my staring and Pearl and hey . . . I think I'm getting it now. I understand that she is NOT pleased when I do that. I really want to keep doing it, but I'm trying to behave. So I only stared at Pearl twice last night which is a record. Because in the last couple of months I average five or more times a night.

Second, Herself is spending longer periods of individual time with Pearl, as you also suggested. I'm not happy about that, but Pearl certainly is. And she seems a little less stressed.

So it seems like we've started the road back to a more peaceable kingdom - like we used to have.

How We Used To Be

 Now I have a question for you. You suggested a cat apartment (wire dog crate) for Pearl. How about me?

Themselves were wondering if we could have one each. That way, we could be in the same general vicinity at times, without Pearl stressing out. It would also make it easier to switch us between the bedroom and living room, without having to catch us first.

And also, do we have to stay in the cages all day and all night?

Let me know your thoughts,

Ziggy

Aggression Between Cats Who Used to Get Along: Ziggy & Pearl

Dear Greyce,

I am writing on behalf of my sister, Pearl, and myself, both age 7 and a half.

Pearl is a spayed female who has fluffy grey, mottled fur. She is intelligent, very curious and also shy - or shall I say, purrhaps lacks confidence? For example, when we first arrived here (almost 7 years ago) it took 6 months before she let anyone pet her. Now she enjoys being petted but when it gets to be too much, will walk away. Pearl is a cat's cat; that is, she prefurrs the company of a cat to the company of a human.I was her number one being in her life.

I am a spayed male with short fur in a stunning black and grey, tiger-striped pattern. I'm intelligent and can listen to commands - though I do play dumb when I don't want to cooperate. I'm a people-oriented cat. I adore my folks and like to have them around me; I also love to cuddle with them.

When we were adopted (at 6 months of age), Pearl and I were inseparable. As we felt more secure in our home, we'd spend some time together and some apart. Pearl has always wanted to spend more time with me than I do with her.

We both enjoy play. When alone, we both like small mice and balls. With the folks, we love Da Bird (a fishing-pole type toy with feathers at the end) or reasonable facsimile thereof. Pearl especially likes cat-to-cat play, but I prefur to play with the folks. Sometimes I'd have to give her a look to get her to back off, because she was getting annoying. But all in all, we got along quite well.

And then . . . I went to the dreaded vet . . . alone! And since then, life as we knew it has never been the same.

When I came home I immediately ran to the bedroom for safety and hid. When I encountered Pearl later that afternoon, we had a fight. Our folks broke it up.

We were at it again in the early hours of the morning. They tried wiping us with each other's scents to give us a sense of belonging but it didn't work. Our vet had us try Valium and later Paxil. Neither was effective.

So here is the problem: I stare Pearl down, stalk her and run up to her. Need I say that she is fearful? She'll hiss if I get too close, linger too long nearby, or try to invade her safe places. Playing together is a thing of the past.

Our folks do a pretty good job of intervening before things get out of paw. When Herself sees any signs of aggression, she will say, "No," or "Stop" and I usually do. Himself distracts me with a toy if he catches me engaging in a staring match.

Some days I behave well and others, not so much. It's the staring that Themselves have difficulty with because they don't always catch it when it starts to happen. 

This has been going on for two months and the situation is NOT improving! To keep Pearl safe, we have been separated while the folks go to work.

I know you like details Greyce, so before I meow pitifully for help, I'll fill you in on our home and routine.

We live in a two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo. We have a cat tree and many scratching posts. And we both enjoy looking out of windows. One bedroom is off-limits but other than that, we have the run of the place. The other bedroom is prime space because that is where we both liked to sleep with our folks every night - until the dreaded incident. And it remains my prime space.

I want access to the bedroom 24/7! It's where I spend most of my time and I'd prefur my folks with me there, thank you very much. I even try to herd them in there when I can. If I'm shut out of that room, I just take it out on Pearl when I get the chance. That's why the bedroom is MINE!

Since I love suitcases, there is now one for me in the living room on which I like to rest.

Now, Pearl likes to be under the skirted chairs in the dining room - under which she can hide; and she likes to be on or under the sofa table.

The most important aspects of our daily routine are as follows:

Our folks work outside the home.

After Herself leaves for the day, we are on our own for about 9 to 10 hours. I'm confined to the bedroom (yippee!) and Pearl has the rest of the place.

When Herself returns, we get fed and them I'm allowed to leave the bedroom. We have play time.

And when it is bedtime, we are separated again.

I should mention that there is more than one problem here. Apart from the obvious, our folks have cancelled several trips away for fear of what might happen in their absence.

They do have relatives who can check in on us, but we fear strangers and will hide from them. Our folks are okay. The vet is tolerated. But that's about all.

The folks are scared that I'll want to get out of the bedroom when someone comes to check on me. And it would be next to impossible to get me back in. And then what would happen to Pearl?

Meanwhile, some of Themselves' friends have suggested getting rid of one of us felines. Themselves are insulted. More importantly, they are very worried.

We need help, Greyce.

Meowing pitifully,

Ziggy

Interactive Play - Suggestions for Jade & Spook

Dear Jade,

Following on my previous advice, I want to tell you about the marvels of interactive play. Interactive play requires human interaction. It is an excellent way to disperse excess energy, give you physical challenge AND build a stronger bond with the humans in your world.

Interactive means that you play with your purrson. Your purrson controls an interactive toy (more about that later) but in a manner that simulates prey behaviour. This gets you interested. And the hunt is on. So now to the details.

Toys of Choice

String Games - These are especially good for the shy cat who may be intimidated by play or the elderly or arthritic cat who can't leap or run much.

The worm - that is, any long, thin thing that can be pulled along the ground. I have several models. Check out this thick, long shoelace (the kind that is for hiking boots) with the aiglets cut off and the ends made into knots. Mine is about 60" long (long enough for Herself to keep the end far enough away from me that I won't pounce on her by mistake).

The fishing pole - basically a long string attached to a pole (to keep the human our of harm's way while you play. Herself made mine using a 30" strand of fleece (from the remnant section of a fabric store) attached to a 30" piece of fake bamboo (sold in the garden section of our local hardware store) with some electrical tape (sometimes, she has used duct tape instead).

The fat fleece which is a fatter, store-bought version of my home-made fishing pole toy and has detachable feathers at the end, to add interest. Pole is kitten-sized (17") but the length of the fleece (40" + 7" feathers) makes up for it. While it is similar to many such toys, it's strong point is that it is well-made and will not easily come apart (except for the feather bit - but even without the feathers I find it quite entertaining). I bought this from the local pet supply store using my catnip allowance.


To use these toys, have your purrson drag them along the floor. You can watch and then pounce. But it gets more interesting if your purrson drags it behind her as she walks through your home. I like when it goes around the corner into another room, or behind a piece of furniture. And it is very entertaining when it starts to crawl up on the sofa and over the cushions.

Bug Games - These are for those of us who prefurr to hunt small bugs, rather than long thin things.

Cat Dancer - While there is nothing like a fresh grasshopper to give you some get up and go, Herself prefurrs to use the Cat Dancer (available from pet supply stores for around $4.00 Canadian). It is very simple: a coiled wire with some cardboard bits on the end. In fact it looks so simple that many people are not impressed by it in the package. But in action, it is another matter.

Herself holds the wire and it goes erratically in the air. Sometimes she gets the bug to go into an open paper bag (or my brand new cat tent) so I can hunt for it there. Sometimes the bug goes between layers of tissue paper on the floor and rustles about to attract my interest.

Recently I acquired a dragonfly by Nekochan (click on this for a video demonstration) and it has become a favourite, especially in winter.

Bird Games - Ah, the flash of feathers! While I had tried several feather toys on poles, my very favourite is called Da Bird.

It has been rated as one of the best cat toys ever, for many years. Herself couldn't understand what all the fuss is about because it looks so much like every other fishing pole toy. But the proof is in the action! It is a long pole ( 3' to keep the human from getting hurt when I pounce), a three-foot piece of string on which the toy dangles, and a clump of feathers that resemble the size and profile of the real thing; those feathers are attached in such a way that they whir through the air, just like a real bird!

Just watch the cat below for a real demonstration.

Herself makes it go through the room in the air and I watch it intently. When she lets it land that really gets me interested. From time to time, she lets the feathers rest on the sofa or the ground. She is patient enough to let them rest for some time, and then I get into my special crouch position and wait for the right moment before I rush up to it and pounce. Once I've released my prey, she sends it up in the air for another round. I am grateful that the manufacturers of this particular toy sell replacement feathers, because I'm sure mine will get a good workout.

Laser Pointer - I used to love a good workout with a laser pointer which is every humans' dream because it requires so little work on their part. They just sit, turn it on and point. The only thing they have to make sure is NOT TO POINT IT IN YOUR EYES because the light is intense and could cause blindness.

Herself went all out and bought one from a stationery and office supply store (about $20!) because she wanted one that would take inexpensive replacement batteries. But I know you can also get them from a dollar store (sometimes for $1.00 and sometimes for $2.00 Canadian); just know that when the batteries wear out, you'll need to get a new pointer because the replacement batteries will cost more than the toy itself.

I have particularly enjoyed watching and then chasing the red point up and down the stairs. And I have friends who literally can climb the walls after it!

But beware, many of us get bored with this - because we can NEVER catch it! And that's how I feel about it now.

The Wand - I love my three-foot feather wand. In fact I loved it to death, so Herself had to go out and purchase several more. (Here I am with the new one on the left and the old one on the right.) A wand costs about $5.00.

Every night before my folks get into bed, we have a special game. I hop on the bed and Herself messes up the duvet and spreads the pillows around to make an interesting hunting ground. Then the wand comes out.

It goes in the air, hits the bed and flops about. It hides under the folds of the duvet. No matter where it is, I watch carefully and pounce. From time to time the feathers fly off. After a while, either I start to lose interest or the toy starts to move more and more slowly, like I've actually maimed it.

And after a final pounce, it's dead. And then Herself puts it away for the night. I'm then ready for a snack.

The Rules of the Game

People make the mistake of thinking that games are purely for entertainment. They don't realize that they are a necessary part of our daily predatory cycle without which we can become quite anxious and uptight. We are hunters; so we need to stalk, chase, pounce and kill several times a day. That is why I recommend two, 15-minute interactive play sessions. Your purrson controls the toy in a manner that simulates prey behaviour. This gets you interested. And the hunt is on.

Here are the details your purrson needs to know, in order to follow the rules of the game.

Prey never come out when you are in the open. You need to be at least somewhat hidden from them (or they from you). Unfortunately many people think you should play in the middle of the room where there is no cover. Now how many hunters go out in the open rather than hiding under a bush or behind a tree?

No I'm not suggesting that your purrson bring in some dirt and a ten-foot tree to add some realism. However a cardboard box with cutouts can serve as an excellent blind (think duck hunter here). A cushion on the floor can be a barrier (or something behind which prey can hide). A tablecloth or low bench can serve to partially hide you while in hunting pose.

Prey never just walk right up to you. They may wander across your line of vision. They will go away from you. But no prey invites himself to be your dinner.

A common mistake most people make with interactive play is to just dangle the toy in front of you, so you stand on your haunches and box. This is a defensive move and does NOT simulate hunting. It entertains the human but has zippo value to you.

No prey would behave so stupidly; so no wonder you are NOT amused.

Prey follow a path of some sort, either on the ground (in and around things too) or in the air. And from time to time they stop and rest. For example while birds fly a lot, they also walk on the ground (looking for worms and bugs) and this is the more likely time when they are caught by hunting cats. And after prey has been caught, it will try to get away. Over time of course, it will get more and more tired and become more and more still. Still prey is dead prey - of not much interest.

Some people make another common mistake: To make the toy go off in a dozen different directions at top speed so that you exhaust yourself chasing it and NEVER catch it! Again, this may be human entertainment but only serves to frustrate you. So you need to insist that they mimic proper prey behaviour.

Prey eventually get caught and die. The game should not continue at a high speed on and on or your 15 minutes will be up and you'll be wound up tighter than a drum!

To help you wind down, the prey needs to get exhausted during the last few minutes of the game, getting slower and slower, and finally be dispatched for the very last time.

Then follow up with a snack. After all, in the wild you would eat your prey after it has been killed.

Some things humans should NEVER do.

Shine a laser pointer in your eyes (it can blind you).

Use their hands (even gloved! even those gloves with toys dangling from the fingers!) instead of a toy. This is dangerous to them because your will pounce, swat, claw and bite them by accident. And it is dangerous for you, because they will think you are vicious when you decide to bite their hand when they put it under the sheets at night, thinking it's another game.

Leave these toys out when the human has gone. Cats have been known to strangle themselves or bite and swallow the strings, when unsupervised. Such toys should be kept in a drawer or closet when not in use. Besides they are more interesting if saved for special occasions.

Do let me know how this works for Spook and yourself. And need I say, given Spook's dominance you would be better off having individual play sessions. Don't forget to close the door so he doesn't barge in and take over!

Let the games begin!
Greyce

When One Cat Bullies Another: Jade and Spook

Dear Greyce,


I am an 8-year old spayed female who was adopted into a loving home about 6 months ago, along with my 5-year old, declawed, neutered room mate Spook.


It has taken a while for me to adjust to my new surroundings because I am wary of strangers. I had been traumatized as a kitten by a so-called friend of my previous family who would flick a lighter in my face; and so I became very vicious with strangers; and so I was declawed at age 3.


In short: Strangers beware! I will growl if strange people approach. I will not permit patting unless I initiate it. And I growl and bat with my paws if startled.


The good news is that Spook and I have adjusted well to our new home. I have become more relaxed and let my folks stroke me all the way down my back to my tail and along my sides. I like to sit on laps, too, although I do get restless and will jump off to check out noises I hear from outside.


The not-so-hot news is that Spook has become a bully.