Tyrone the Cat Gets More Advice on Living with a Puppy

Hello Tyrone,

I promised to advise you further about dealing with the new puppy who will soon become a part of your household.

In my last entry to you (published on 10/3/13), we reviewed:
- Getting you used to puppy sounds and smells in advance.
- Getting your folks up to speed on what it takes to raise a puppy and how to decode cat talk.
- Paying special attention to making sure puppy understands that you are much higher up in the family hierarchy, so you will be treated with respect (and be safe).
- Moving your food and water to a place puppy cannot reach.
- Bringing the kennel that puppy will sleep in into the master bedroom now so you can get used to it; locating it in a way that still makes your favourite sleeping spot accessible and safe for you.
- Using Feliway to enhance your sense of calm.
- Putting a puppy barrier to block access to your litter box so you can use it in peace.

Keko: Needs Lots of Challenge and Enrichment to Manage Litterbox Problems.High Maitenance But Worth It!

Keko is a Bengal cat who pees outside the litterbox when things get to be too much for her. Her problem started with peeing on the mattress (November 2010) , then transformed to peeing just outside her litterbox. The next month she consulted me about waking her purrsons up very early in the morning.  All appeared well until July 2012 when major changes in household routine led to her peeing in many places. She was in good health (no urinary tract infection). Being a Bengal, she has lots of energy and needs lots of stimulation and physical activity. And so she needed a richer and more challenging environment, to reduce her anxiety and give her brain and body a continual workout. She implemented a number of my suggestions and updated me the following year, saying all was going well. In her own words: I'm high maintenance but I'm worth it!

Cat Pees Over Side of Box: Celeste's Problem

Hello Greyce,

Celeste

My photo says it all. I am lovely and quite beautiful. Frankly I bring joy to my folks - 2 adult humans with whom I live in a quiet household.  I am a 5-year-old spayed and declawed calico only-cat.


My problem is with my litter box(es). I sometimes pee over the side, rather than in the box. And this is bothering my folks.

Cat Stops Pooping in Box

Dear Greyce,

I am 18 months old and live in a home that already has a cat (female) my age and a dog. I am happy and playful and love sitting on purrsons. Lately I've become skittish - for no apparent reason that anyone can discern. However I have stopped using the litter box as a place in which to poop.
Can you help me?


The Mystery Pooper

When Constipation Looks Like a Cat Behaviour Problem: A Senior Cat in Trouble

Ben

My friend Ben is a very handsome, black-furred senior - all of 14 years old. He's famous for being  the Delta Society's first certified therapy cat in Canada. Cats-in-the-know enjoyed the chapter about him called "Take One Cat, as Needed, for Pain" in the book More Great Cat Stories: Incredible Tales About Exceptional Cats. Now retired, he has settled down to a life a relative ease.

Purrhaps this has contributed to his most recent problem: constipation.

Cat Pees along Periphery of Rooms

Dear Greyce,

I am a 2 year old, spayed, declawed female with a tabby coat and yellow eyes. For the past year I've taken to peeing in fairly large amounts around the periphery of rooms in the house (except for the kitchen and the laundry room). And now it is on the increase. I've had my urine tested and it is fine.

When I urinate outside the box, Themselves take me back to where I've urinated and then to the basement for 15 or 20 minutes. They also clean the spots and then spray them. And they move my food bowl to where I have urinated. (Ha, ha! I just eat the food!)

Usually they don't see me in action. But just this morning, I did it right in front of Herself. And now I'm adding spraying to my repertoire.

I live in a multi-pet household and I think there is a problem here. My colleagues include two dogs: a) Sam (a 3 year old Cocker Spaniel spayed female) whom I adore and who adores everyone. I wash her, we play fight and we sometimes snuggle and sleep together; b) and Indy, a  5 year old, neutered male Chihuahua who is very affectionate with and protective of Herself and who likes to play with Sam. Indy is afraid of me and hides from me in his little house (to the delight of the adult children in the household).

There are two other cats as well: a) Ozzie is a 19 year old, neutered black male who is very affectionate and a little playful; but he moves slowly and is deaf; b) Misty is an 11-year old spayed female with soft, gray colours. She is vocal and affectionate with her favourites. And her very favourite purrson is Himself. She likes to play and loves being petted. She likes everyone but me!

In addition there are four humans: Themselves (male and female) and their adult children (male and female - one of whom has allergies so has minimal contact with us, and the other of whom we hardly see at all). My main purrson is Herself.

I think part (or all) of the problem is another cat in the house, Misty.

My problem started about a year ago when two things happened. First, Themselves' daughter had a bad allergic reaction and pet hair was suspected. So she would not pet or play with any of us. 

Misty really took this to heart because she had been closely bonded to her. Can you imagine what it must be like to go from being the only-beloved of a purrson and then suddenly being banned from any further contact with her? 

Second Misty got very sick and required extensive hospitalization. She had surgery but the vet could not find anything physically wrong with her.

When she returned home from the vet hospital, Ozzie and I growled and tried to attack her. So Misty was given her own room because the vet advised that her stress be reduced. She is now super-attached to Himself.

Now Ozzie and I have the run of the house during the day, while Misty stays in her room. Then at night, we retire to the basement and Misty takes over.

In the past three months Misty has been allowed out more often. Ozzie just ignores her but I hunt her and fight with her. At first she would fight back but now she just howls and will either run away or go back up to her room. I will sneak up on Misty when she is asleep and attack her. If I'm caught, Themselves put me in the basement for 15 or 20 minutes.

In the last two months we have all shared the space for short, supervised visits. These visits are now increasing in length and Themselves are supervising them less - unless we start to fight.

I know you want background information Greyce, so here goes:

I was a farm cat who was adopted at the age of 5 or 6 weeks. I was confined to the master bedroom for a week and then met Sam (the cocker spaniel) who is absolutely delightful. We are great pals. Then I met the other two cats, Ozzie and Misty. Ozzie was fine from the start. Misty refused to have anything to do with me!

Then I met the other dog, Indy, who was scared of me and kept his distance. He still does - for good reason, because I can be aggressive.

About 3 to 4 weeks later I was let out of the room with one pet at a time, until we all became accustomed to one another. 

As for me: I prefurr to be largely on my own (except for Sam) for I am not a lap cat. The only human contact I truly desire involves playing games with string or toy mice. I'm strictly indoors but enjoy looking out the windows and meowing at the birds. When I hear or see something that is strange to me I run and hide in the basement.

My daily routine is as follows: 6 a.m. breakfast. While Themselves get ready to leave, I chase after treats in the bathroom. This is followed by a nap and/or playing with my toys (with human assistance). 

I have 2 purrsonal toys -  a very favourite piece of string and a toy mouse, along with a box of shared ones. I prefurr to chase toys and throw them up in the air. I also like to hunt for toys under a blanket or towel. I am a mighty hunter.

While Themselves are at work, I have the run of the upstairs with the rest of the gang (except Misty). At 6 p.m. I am given dinner and everyone returns from work. Since I am fed twice daily and there are household issues, I am served in my exclusive food dish either in the dining room or the upstairs bathroom. After dinner, I have treats for dessert.

After supper I have playtime with a human again. Around 10 p.m. I get more treats (about 10 to 15 in a day) and then I and my colleague, Ozzie, go to the basement for the night. We are confined to the basement because I would want to play in the middle of the night and for some reason all the humans wanted to do is sleep! Misty used to join us until she took sick.

While my food dish is exclusively mine, I share various water bowls and a water fountain with assorted pets. The cats in the household share three litter boxes: 2 open ones in the basement and 1 covered one in the laundry room. Misty has an additional box in the spare room which is her exclusive retreat. All boxes have unscented, non-clumping litter in them and are cleaned weekly.

I have access to all parts of the house (when we are not time-sharing) except for the adult childrens' bedrooms and the bathrooms (because I have urinated there). 

There are no cat trees or scratching posts in my home, largely I think because we are all declawed.

That's all I can think of Greyce. I do hope you can help me.

Yours,
Meeka

Moving Food Bowls & Litter Boxes to Different Locations

Dear Greyce,

Now that we are back to being friends, (see Cat Companions are Back to Being Friends  4/27/11) we need more help. Precisely, how do we return to using our regular food bowls and regular litter boxes, now that we no longer have to time-share space? For some reason, Themselves are not pleased with the thought of permanent installations in the master bedroom.

In the olden days, we used two litter boxes: 1) upstairs in the hallway bathroom and 2) in the main floor bathroom. The first box was moved to the bathroom in the master bedroom when we were time-sharing (since we both needed toilet access at all times). Our litter box on the main floor never moved.

In case you need to know, we have a spare box which is use in rotation, so Themselves have the chance to clean one of our soiled boxes and let it dry without disturbing us too much.
Let us know what you think.

Yoshi and Taro

Cat Now Poops Inside Litter Box!

Dear Greyce,

Tigress

I have been using my litter box as the destination for my poop for a month, now. Okay, so I had one 'accident'. Not bad.


My purrsons are very happy and proud of me. So is my sister, Ebony.

Of course, she had to show it by posing for a photo as well. As least it is with me!

Ebony & Tigress

I still don't know what came over me (see blog entries: Cat Still Poops Beside the Box of 2/27/11 and Tigress Poops Beside the Box of 2/9/11). But I am pleased with myself for correcting the problem. I give myself two paws up.

By the way, I have passed your blog address to my Vet. She was very interested because she felt that it would be useful information to have for other clients.

Thank you for all your help.

Proudly,
Tigress

Dear Tigress,

You deserve all the praise you can get!

We may never know exactly what turned you off using the box in the first place BUT we do know that you must never have a box on a carpetted surface.

For you, that is about as tempting as putting a box of high-quality chocolates in front of Herself. Both of you are faced with a temptation that is extremely difficult to resist.

But do celebrate in your own special way. You've done a great job!

Best,

Greyce

No More Urine Spraying! Moby's Update

Dear Greyce,  

When I lasted contacted you (Moby's News - 7/6/10) I had stopped my medications and had started to consistently use my litter box. In other words, I had really turned a corner.

So I thought you might like an update.

I use my litter box faithfully and no longer spray.

Finally I've come to terms with my feline companion, Mick. He has his issues but I stay out of his way and so we 'live and let live'.

I adore my purrsons and they treat me like a king.

So life is good . . . VERY good!

Yours,
Moby

The Pee Fest Has Stopped: Smooshie's Update

Dear Greyce,

Just touching base to let you know of my progress (see Smooshie's Pee fest - 2/9/11). Now that the Feliway diffuser and spray are being used as suggested I have consistently used my litter boxes. I'm especially enjoying my second box (downstairs) because a woman really does like choice. And I am getting more play time!

Yippee!!
Smooshie

Cat Still Poops Beside the Box: An New Action Plan for Tigress

Dear Greyce,



I contacted you recently about preferring to poop near but definitely not in my litter boxes. I tried many of the suggestions you gave me but they do not work (entry: Tigress Poops Beside the Box - 2/9/11). My folks and I are VERY FRUSTRATED. Please give me ideas that will work for me.


I need your help!
Tigress




Dear Tigress-in-Distress,

Fear not. Detective Greyce is on the trail!

While not all litter box issues are easy to solve - as you have just shown – I’m not ready to give up yet.

For the benefit of other readers, as well as for you, let’s review the progress that has been made on this case. Be patient, Tigress. I’m doing this so other cats with similar problems can benefit as much as possible from the information – and then I will get to your purrsonal action plan.

We know the following clues about your situation and this has helped narrow the problem down.


1. You and your cat companion, Ebony, get along very well. So social issues between the two of you are neither a source of anxiety to you nor a contributor to your problem. (Can you believe that some of us live with other cats who, for example, guard the litter box and don’t allow us to use it?)

2. Ebony has no litter box issues, so the problem rests with you alone.

3. Your poop is a combination of cigar shapes and puddles. You have no history of digestive or poop-related problems (like constipation or diarrhea). This means that there is no medical problem which causes you pain or strain that you might associate with using your box (and thus seek to avoid by doing your business elsewhere) – either in the past or at present.

4. You are declawed. Why is this important?

Because some declawed cats have litter box issues, largely related to substrate (whatever is used as litter inside your box). That is why immediately after being declawed, most vets recommend the use of compressed newsprint litter (such as Yesterday's News) because its smooth surfaces and lack of grainy texture are easier on the amputations. And a few cats continue to remain paw-sensitive and thus require smooth, non-grainy litter for the rest of their lives. Now, you are not one of them because you have been successfully using your litter until recently; and you continue to do so when you pee.

5. You don’t vocalize while using the box (just before, during, or just after). And this just confirms that pain and/or anxiety with the act of pooping is not a contributing factor.

6. You have confirmed that you are not anxious, either by nature or by circumstance, because everyone loves you and there have been no changes to the household. That’s good news because we don’t have any such issues to mitigate.

7. You tried leaving an area completely around each box clear (rather than up against the wall or in a corner) for you to walk around. No change. So access around the box is not an issue for you.

8. You have not tried a larger box, but once I saw the photo (and I’ll talk a LOT more about that) I knew it wouldn’t work. So don’t bother.

9. You only poop beside the boxes in the alcove. You are not interested in using the box in the laundry room and so it has been removed. This tells me that you both prefurr the alcove location. And just like in real estate, location is a critical and important factor. To you, boxes and the alcove is a match made in heaven. You like the alcove, just not the substrate.

Now here is where it gets interesting – based on a combination of what you wrote me recently AND the photo you sent. Believe me, a picture really is worth a thousand words! 

Important New Clue #1: You are pooping on carpet. I had assumed your boxes were on a smooth surface (like lino or concrete). Knowing that they are on carpet is VERY important.

You see, some cats develop a prefurrence for using carpet. It usually starts like this. They use their boxes faithfully and all seems to be well. But the substrate isn’t that great for them – Sure they use it for lack of an alternative and then, for whatever reason, they discover the softness of carpet. “This is more like it,” they say to themselves and proceed to use the carpet instead. And this tends to happen more often with poop (rather than pee) problems, because with pooping most cats tend to dig more before and after doing the deed, and moving their paws through a substrate they really don’t like encourages them to look for alternatives.

Other cats are reasonably okay with the substrate they have, even though it isn’t the greatest. But once they discover the carpet alternative, all bets are off. They can be encouraged back to using the box and may even do so from time to time. But they really, really like the carpet. In technical terms this is called mild substrate aversion with strong substrate preference and that is what I think you have, dear Tigress because of your experience with Dr. Elsey’s Cat Litter.

Important Clue #2: At my suggestion you tried Dr. Elsey's Cat Attract Litter (with attractant to get you back into the box) two weeks; it worked for a while. This tells me that doing things to make the box more attractive can, at least, get you attention. It also tells me that that is not enough, because there is something else (carpet) that is attracting you more.

Important Clue #3: You approach the box from the side. You are not a big scratcher (either when you prepare your spot or cover it after use). When you pee, you put your paws on the side and do your business in the middle. I am not 100% sure what you mean by this, but the picture I get in my furry mind I have visions of you putting your paws up against the rim or the walls of the box (which would indicate that you want to avoid putting them on the litter as much as possible (i.e., that this substrate just doesn’t do it for you). But you don’t stand on the edge of the box and dig around outside it (which would be proof positive that you detested the litter). You do dig around the carpet area on which you have pooped, which would give you sensory feedback of the loveliness of the carpeted surface on your paws. In other words, this supports my thoughts from Clues #1 and #2.

Important Clue #4: When I saw your photo, it also told me that you are pooping only on the carpet – and not, for example, on the hard plastic that is nearby. So it is definitely carpet that turns you on (and possibly this kind of texture and depth of carpet in particular).

One Other Clue That MAY Be Important

From your photo I see that you use plastic, disposable litter box liners – which many purrsons like (for the convenience of clean up) and many cats detest (either because of the slick surface or it’s getting caught in their claws). Now you are declawed so the latter doesn’t apply. But you might not be that thrilled with the smooth surface.

So what do I now think? You don’t like your litter, though there are things that can be done to it that make it more tolerable (like using Dr. Elsey’s). But when push comes to shove, you believe that the alcove carpet is the best pooping surface by far.

Your Purrsonal Action Plan

To get you back to using your box for pooping, you are going to need to remove the option of carpet from under your feet.

Now before your folks have a heart attack at the thought of ripping up the carpet and replacing the flooring with a hard surface (like sheet vinyl or lino), tell them to take a deep breath and read on.

Here is what I’d like you do to:

Step 1. Go to a hardware or carpet store that sells heavy plastic carpet protector. It comes on a roll (and they just buy the size they need). It is usually about a metre or so wide, is clear, and has pointed bits on the bottom to grip the carpet so it doesn’t slide. Most people use it to cover carpeted stairs or hallways – places of heavy traffic that can damage carpet faster. The good news, is that this is a relatively inexpensive option.

Have them buy enough of the stuff that they can cut it to fit a large area of the alcove. It should go at least all the way around your boxes – except for the side of the box that is up against the wall - for a metre (or even more) so you have no carpet available when you need to poop.

(The other option is for them to get an off-cut of vinyl flooring and cut it to fit the entire alcove space. An off-cut is just a leftover piece that carpet stores offer at a deep discount. Sometimes this is cheaper – if they get an off-cut bargain – and sometimes not. The cheapest short-term solution is the way to go – until we are assured that this solution is really working well for you in the long run.)

Step 2. Clean up the pooped area with a special cleaner made to clean up pet poop – sold in pet supply and carpet stores) so that the smell is removed. This is important because the smell can re-attract you back to using that area. Besides humans don’t tend to like the smell anyway. (There are lots of decent products on the market. Just get one that is prefurrably non-scented and that has the easiest instructions to follow.)

Depending on the product, they can help it dry faster using a hair dryer - but they need to read the label and make sure this is okay. Otherwise they need to ensure that you can’t use that area for pooping. This means pushing back the plastic from that area and then covering it with a weighted box (a empty box with NO bottom and some small holes punched in it to allow air circulation) and weighted with phone books or such so you can’t move it away. This gives the area a chance to dry without you getting to poop over it.

Once that area is dry, it needs to be covered with the plastic carpet protector too.

Step 3. Along with protecting the carpet, they must return to using Dr. Elsey’s in one of your two boxes, so that at least it is a better option for you than not.

So what do I expect will happen? I hope you will go back to using the box. And if not?

If you start to poop on the plastic, then it tells me that your litter is still unacceptable to you and we will have to get more creative. While you have exhausted many of the alternatives, I would need a detailed list of each and every litter tried, before I gave up on this.  (There are a variety of soft litters to consider.) And I’d also give serious consideration to getting rid of the plastic liners. But don’t jump the gun yet. Give Steps 1 to 3 a try first.
If you start to poop on the carpet at the end of the carpet protector, then you are saying loud and clear that you are a committed carpet-pooping cat. The good news is that you are still determined to use carpet NEAR your litter boxes. So . . . we can also go the route of offering a carpet option inside one of your boxes. For this, I’d suggest using box #3 – that one from the laundry room that you no longer use now put into use in the alcove. (Don't worry, we'll get back to using only two boxes, later.) Your folks would need to buy a small bit of carpet similar in depth and texture to what is on the floor. They would still keep the regular floor covered in plastic.

Once you start to use this box for poop, they would SLOWLY (and I can provide very detailed directions about what this really means) cut back on the size of the carpet in the box and SLOWLY replace it with the litter that has proven to be the most acceptable to you. Over time, you would get used to using the box and eventually using one that has only litter and no carpet in it. BUT they would still need to keep your access to alcove carpet restricted by plastic protector (or some such).

Some cats keep prefurring the strip of carpet with either no or very little litter. Frankly, if this is what it takes after all other things are tried, so be it. It's an awful lot easier to replace a carpet scrap from time to time than to deal with poop on the floor.

Option of Last Resort: The other option (only if absolutely necessary) is to confine you in a small room (NOT CLOSET!) which has no carpet (or whose floor is completely covered in plastic protector or a vinyl off-cut. You would have no carpet option here and would likely start to use the box instead. Of course, this means having your food, water, toys, etc. here too. And possibly Ebony. And having visits from your folks. It’s my least preferred option because it takes a lot more commitment on everyone’s part and thus can be stressful. If you go this route, then once you have been re-trained to the box, they could start re-introducing to the rest of the house.

(Note: This is the option many vet clinics use to re-train cats with litter box problems. The cat is kept in a clinic cage with no option but to use the box. If she still won’t use the box, it is removed and the bottom of the cage is covered with litter instead. Slowly the amount of litter is reduced and eventually – when it gets to a box-sized area, the litter is but in a box for use.)

In any event, the rule in your house is going to be: no litter boxes on carpet EVER - even though I remain a fan of that alcove because that is the place both you cats prefurr. And if that means long-term use of plastic carpet protector or vinyl off-cut or consideration of replacing the alcove floor with a hard surface, then so be it.

And please note: lino or vinyl is a better choice than hardwood or ceramic. Some litters do a great job of wearing hardwood down and scratching its surface. And should you have an accident, the chances of leakage (and thus the difficulty of thorough clean up) is more so than on the surfaces I recommend. Ditto with ceramic tile or slate (whose surfaces, if not sealed) can be problematic in a litter box area.

But it's early days yet, Tigress. Before you start diverting your cat nip fund to the re-flooring fund, give those steps in your action plan.
So Tigress, you have some work to do. Just keep me posted on your progress.

I’ll keep my paws crossed!

Greyce

Tigress Poops Beside The Box: What Can Be Done?

Dear Greyce,



I am a laid-back, 1 year old indoor cat and live with my two purrsons and another cat, Ebony. She and I have been with the family for over a year (we came about 3 weeks apart – both rescued). We are both spayed. We get along quite well, even sleeping together.


Lately I have stopped using my litter box for pooping. Oh I continue to pee in it, but poop on the floor beside the box.

Smooshie's Pee Fest: Vertical Urine Marking (also known as Spraying)

Dear Greyce,



It’s been quite a while since I last wrote you. And you were great at designing a new litter box for me – which I love. I’m now 8 years old and have a new problem: I spray walls, piddle on carpet, and have even pooped outside the box! My latest urine tests show that I don’t have a medical problem. So Greyce, what’s going on?

Bear the Cat Pees on the Bed and More!

Dear Greyce,



I have been very busy peeing on the bed. And I’m doing a very good job of it.


I started as soon as Themselves moved their old, never-been-peed-on-before bed into the room I share with my sister, Bailey. By the way, they got a new bed for themselves.

Cat Peeing From Over-Excitement or Anxiety: An Update From Dash

Hi Greyce,



Since you last wrote about me (Small Bits of Urine - A Big Problem for Dash on 11/17/10), I have been making progress. Themselves are getting much better at noticing my behaviour and while my scent marking (urine on the stairs) continues upstairs, the frequency has changed. Instead of day-to-day, I have gone for a week or more without feeling the need to mark that spot.


So I am doing well even though I continue peeing outside the litter box at times, mostly in the basement where Skeeter and I stay when Themselves are not home.



There seem to be three triggers:


1. Herself notices that some of my urine spots are fresh when she gets home. She thinks I become really over-excited at hearing the garage door open (signaling her return) and then I just pee.


2. Sometimes if we have been in the basement all day and beyond our usual dinner time, accidents will happen too.


3. Sometimes it is just a sign that the litter boxes are not to my liking. You may remember that we have two basement litter boxes: one on the landing and one on the floor. Skeeter used to use the one on the floor; but he started to use the landing one as well and it would fill rather quickly.


Good news though, both are now downstairs and next to each other. I use both: one for urine and one for feces.


By the way, Themselves also leave us out for most nights (instead of keeping us in the basement) and I either sleep with them on the bed (Skeeter is there too), or I stay on the same floor in my most favorite cat bed. So slowly I am adapting.


Thank you again for your help,


Dash



Dear Dash,

It is always good to hear of your progress. I'm going to write about those three triggers for peeing outside the box and offer some suggestions. But first, my dear, ARE making progress. Congratulations on having Themselves improve their observational skills. Careful observation is the first step in gathering the clues by which they can help you adapt even more.

Since the beginning of our consultative relationship, I’ve remarked that you are a most anxious cat. And I do know that it was unlikely that you had household socialization at the proper time in your kitten hood. So developing into a more resilient pet will continue to be your life challenge. Nonetheless you have made significant progress.

You mention three triggers for peeing outside the box when you are in the basement.

1. Over-excitement on Herself’s return. That just shows how anxious a cat you are. Some of us become so happy or relieved that our purrson has returned that we just lose bladder control. Believe me, it can happen to humans, too.

I wonder if Themselves make a fuss over the two of you, both when they leave the house and when they return. If they are doing this (and it would be understandable), then they need to modify their behaviour a bit. Some of us just get so emotionally excited that it becomes a stressor.

I hate to mention it but dogs (yes dogs) with separation anxiety, often react (get stressed) by their purrson’s departures and arrivals. The solution in both cases is to diffuse the emotionality around the going and coming into the home. This simply means that instead of making any fuss when they leave or re-enter, they need to do so is a less emotionally-charged way. For example suppose when they return, they immediately go downstairs and greet the two of you and pet you and cuddle you and dance with you and give you treats. Wow! But that ‘wow’ would be to much for you. Much better if instead they just said, “I’m home” and opened up the basement door to let you come up. And then just went about their chores.

Ditto when they leave. If they are giving you special cuddles and whispers and the like, they are inadvertently having you focus on the fact that they will be gone; and that can be anxiety-provoking. Instead ask them to consider giving you a home-made food puzzle to keep you occupied, then say ‘good-bye’ in a nonchalant way and close the basement door.

Let me know if this is relevant and if the proposed solution is helpful to you.

2. Dinner being late. Yeah, I get it. Any deviation from your expected schedule makes you anxious. It sounds to me like you are wearing your telepathic cat watch and when Themselves are late, you worry that they have been bagged by a predator!

If this is problematic, they MIGHT consider an automatic feeder with a timer, so that dinner can happen at the same time every day and thus becomes less worrisome for you. If you decide to go this route (and is the ONLY an option NOT a directive from me), keep in mind your fear of novelty (which I will address in a separate blog entry) in introducing you to this device.

Another option is to have them start to vary their return times (starting with a five-minute variance) but that is likely too difficult in logistics for them to manage at this time. However, if you are interested in how this would work, let me know.

3. Litter box cleanliness. It sounds like their observational skills are improving. Congratulations for getting them to move the boxes so that you and Skeeter can use the boxes properly. And do make sure they keep to a regular cleaning schedule. A daily clean is what I advocate. Even though I live without the presence of others of my species, I insist on a daily clean so I don’t have to navigate over aromatic lumps and bumps while I attend to my needs.

And as for peeing upstairs. It sounds like that issue is getting under control. I do think much of that is related to over-excitement. You need to have those good workouts and yet be helped to return to a calmer state at the end of them. It’s like doing aerobics at the gym; at the end you need to slow down and stretch or you will continue to be so wound up that you aren’t fit to live with! At least that’s what I understand purrsons go through.

Keep up the good work,

Greyce

Cat Pee on the Bed: Bear's Saga Continues

Dear Greyce,

Since I last wrote (see Continued Urine Marking - Nov. 8, 2010), the spare bed has been decorated twice with my urine.

Herself is just not sure what to do. She is tempted to close our door during the day so we can’t use that room. That said, most recent incidents happened first thing in the morning when they were still home.

They already close their own bedroom door when they are not at home (because I have had a peeing history there) and that is the only other window access room on the ground floor. Well to tell you the truth, there is the front door window but no comfy reclining spots there.
What can I say? I pee on beds! Help!


Should they leave a plastic bag on top of the bed linens? Should the litter box sit on top of the bed? Or beside it? (Himself’s fear is that a litter box on the bed will teach me that a bed is an okay place to pee and that might translate to their room too.)

Oh, there has been tons of cuddling and lots of play – as you recommended for dealing with any anxiety. I really like my laser toy. That dot is fun to chase. It is one of the only toys that I will actually go after when my sister is in the room. The rest of the toys need a closed door room and even then I am not so sure about chasing them as I know she is outside the door waiting for her turn.

Thank you for your continued support. So sorry to keep bugging you!

Sincerely,
Bear






Dear Bear,


You are not bugging me. In fact, you are helping my readers understand how complicated it is to implement behavioural change. Even though general principles apply, every situation is different. And yet success is all in the details.


So I’m grateful that you are providing me with the details that have been difficult for you. If we can clarify those, then we can get on with the program – and hopefully with success.


It seems to me that you feel the need to mark the bed. I know, I know, it’s a lot of urine that you deposit and some would say you are urinating and not marking. As I said to Dash (just today, in the entry, Small Bits of Urine), it is awfully difficult to distinguish some cases of horizontal urine marking from cases of urination. Some cats (and I suspect you are one of them) like to mark as well as pee in the same place – even in their litter boxes. And the solutions to marking and inappropriate elimination problems are different.


I suspect that there is a marking element – that your pheromonal code on that bed has dissipated over time and you are refreshing it with your urine. Purrhaps you see this as part of your daily duty, to mark significant areas as the household rises for the day. It would be wonderful if you would mark with check rubs, instead.


I also suspect that bed peeing has something to do with the fact that beds in both bedrooms – for you have a past history of peeing on both - are near windows with views of your grounds. Most of us feel that windows are areas of vulnerability. Purrsons say they are safe because windows are solid; but there sure don’t look solid to us!


So what do I think? I think you are marking and may even be peeing, too. I think it likely relates to feeling vulnerable and that the windows are a contributing factor. And as for choosing the bed, rather than the window itself? I think it’s largely due to your preferences for soft surfaces and fabrics – like your penchant for peeing on pillows.


I know that peeing on the bed is a difficult issue – both for some cats (like you) and for their purrsons.


Right now it seems as if you and beds are like my Herself and chocolate. Herself has a passion for chocolate especially during the winter months. Even though it is contributing to added pounds and she knows she should not imbibe, its mere presence is such a strong attractant that blind desire obscures all reason. Hence the need to ban chocolate from the premises (even though Himself adores it).


In the same vein, it seems that mere access to the spare bedroom draws you to marking the bed. So for now, I vote for keeping the door closed – at the very least for the times when Themselves are not at home. And yes, I am aware that you’ve peed on the beds in the early morning, when the folks are at home. My prefurrence right now is to see how things will work out if both bedroom doors are kept closed. Of course, we will monitor the situation and adjust as needed.


If they feel the need to keep the door to the spare room open for any period of time, then 1) the litter box should stay beside the bed and 2) the garbage bag – or preferably a liquid-proof bedwetting pad should be over the target area, and 3) they should consider spraying that pad with Feliway (assuming they have some of the spray bottle left over from your last escapades) to discourage you from marking it.


I believe I’d mentioned the box location in my last entry to you. But it was buried in some of my comments and purrhaps you didn’t see it. From what I recall from the floorplan you sent me, they could try the box either beside the part of the bed you most pee on OR on the side of the bed closest to the window (which may be a triggering factor). If they use Feliway on the bed itself, then I suggest the box go on the side nearer the window (just because it will be away from the Feliway).


I’d rather you NOT have a litter box on top of the bed because that is a very difficult location. As a temporary measure it may be fine; but I think we are heading for the long haul, here.

I suggest a box near your ‘decorating’ place but NOT on it because of your history. For example, when you wrote me about your peeing-on-the-stove problem, you then installed a litter box in the kitchen; you were able to use that box instead of the stove top. Now let’s not get into the fact that you’d still really like the stove top. All I’m saying is that given a nearby alternative, you have shown that you will use it. You have been using it, haven’t you?


As for the bed pad and Feliway. I would hope that the Feliway spray (not diffuser) would encourage you to use the nearby box. But that is a hope and not a certainty. Just make sure your folks follow the instructions for clean up (no produces with ammonia, bleach or scent AND using Feliway only once the pad is dry). They also need to pay attention to using Feliway when the bedroom is open and before you come in.


And before I leave the subject of cats and pee on beds, there is one other possible solution but it is very expensive. They could replace the guest bed with a Murphy bed (the link given is only one site) that is, a bed that folds up into the wall when not in use. (It looks like a very attractive wood panel when closed.) It’s a very popular solution in places like New York City where space is at a premium; and it is a way to have the use of the bed when needed, but keep temptation out of your way when not. Now this is quite costly and could affect your toy and catnip supply for some time. So it is not a solution to be taken at all lightly. Try the others, first.


The window viewing issue is an important one. I am not a fan of having you watch through the front door window and with both bedroom doors closed, your options are limited on this floor. Remember, you already have anointed items in the front hall – likely as a result of seeing or smelling roaming cats. But don’t forget, you do have a favourite viewing area at the stairs (that you showed me on your floorplan) so I hope that would do, instead.


If you absolutely must use the front door as your ground floor viewing area, just remember: no pillows for you. If Herself still has some Feliway spray leftover, then suggest she give the door a bit of a spritz at cat level a couple of times a day. You can with the bedroom doors closed, access to the front door window and Feliway first, and see what happens.


Now about that issue with toys and Bailey. There is obviously something about your relationship that intimidates you. Do you think food puzzles would be a solution, as something that might interest you while Bailey is doing other things? Read today's entry to Dash (metioned earlier) which talks about food puzzles among other things, and think about it. It’s just a suggestion, not an order.


And do keep in touch and let me know how things go.


I’m rooting for you Bear,


Greyce

Small Bits of Cat Urine - A Big Problem for Dash

Dear Greyce,

I have a problem. Recently I have started to pee in the upstairs stairwell (the one that connects the main floor to the upstairs). Before I go into the particulars, I will provide more information about my circumstances.

My Background

I am a neutered male, short-haired tabby with extra claws on my paws (I have 16 front toes and 10 back ones) and am somewhere between 2.5 and 4 years old. I was hosted by the local animal shelter for many months where I was listed as a cat with issues related to anger displacement. But after a thorough veterinary examination, it did not appear that I’d be a threat to my new purrsons. In July (2010) I was fortunate to be adopted along with Skeeter, a 1.5 year-old neutered male tabby to keep me company.

We live in a house which has three storeys: bedrooms on one floor, main (and open) living area on another, and an unfinished walk-out basement where we spend time while our purrsons are away at work and where we sleep at night. Our purrsons are good to us and I have no real complaints.

Skeeter and I get along quite well. We play fight, groom each other, and he often cuddles into me when we sleep. I am the dominant cat and especially like to hog food bowls. But Skeeter takes this philosophically – just backing away when I stick my snout in. I am VERY food-motivated. If I can find it and eat it, then it’s been a great day.

I am very active. I jump on all surfaces and get sprayed by a water bottle for it. It’s okay for me to be on beds or couches.

I am also very curious. I want to climb in the fridge, check out what’s in the sink, go into any open cupboard. I sit on the window ledges on the main floor, look out the back door and check everything out.

But I have a fear of novelty. For example, I was traumatized by the treadmill so much that Themselves covered it up. (I started to pee outside the litter box, get nervous about being in the basement, you name it.) And only recently have I regained the nerve to explore it (thought it’s still covered up as you recommended).

Skeeter likes to play with toys way more than I do. But I love playing in my nylon tent, jumping into boxes and bags and playing with a long string of fleece attached to stick dragged round by Themselves. They play with us every morning while changing their clothes and when they get home at night.

But sometimes our play fighting gets out of hand (or should I say, paw). I grab, bite and pin Skeeter down by holding him at the back of the neck. He hisses in reply. I guess I become over-stimulated. But now Themselves break us up if this happens and we are both given a time-out – just like you advised.

When I contacted you, you gave me lots of good advice: about Feliway, interactive play, and all sorts of things. For the most part, I have been learning to trust my new home and its inhabitants.

Back to The Problem

Recently I have started to pee in the upstairs stairwell (the one the connects the main floor to the upstairs). Themselves have cleaned it with a non-detergent cleaner and sprayed Feliway in the corner. This started about a month ago and so far has happened about four times. It only happens in the evening (since most daytimes we are down the basement when our folks are at work).

I am leaving small bits of urine there. But I continue to use our litter boxes: one on the basement stairwell which I use faithfully, and one in the basement itself.

Sometimes they catch me in the act and sometimes they just notice the scent when I have left. Once I was caught about to do it, and was encouraged successfully to use my litter box instead.

They say thee pee events happen when I am ‘off’ – I’ve either gotten carried away with Skeeter and we’ve had to be separated, or I’ve hissed at Skeeter, or I’ve made growling noises when one of them has picked me up.

Why am I doing this Greyce? I love these stairs. I have particular steps on which I like to sleep. Am I jealous of Skeeter’s independent play since he is much more playful – even though we both get daily play sessions?

Just so you know, Greyce, we have three Feliway diffusers (one for each floor) and Themselves use Feliway spray on the stairs and surrounding walls.

Any advice you can give me would be appreciated.
Yours,
Dash



Dear Dash,

First of all, congratulations on your excellent progress in adjusting to you new home! You have been through a great deal of change and are handling it well. You have special needs and will likely be less resilient than many, which means you need some special care and lots of patience.

Now let me cut to the chase, and get on to the topic at hand: Urine marking.

What Urine Marking Is

Small bits of urine indicate urine marking, rather than urination. At least they do to me. In other words, you are engaged in marking behaviour rather than urination (going to the bathroom, so to speak). Marking is a time-honoured method by which we purrsonalize our territory, communicate with other cats, and help us orient and feel comfortable. As you know, there are four kinds of marking – rubbing against things, scratching things, spraying or depositing small bits of urine, and depositing feces without burial. And they are arranged in order, meaning that we usually rub against things; but if we become more anxious (or concerned about asserting dominance) than we go up a notch or two – to scratching or urine deposition. So the bottom line is that urine marking gives you confidence by surrounding you with your own smell. It can be use to demonstrated dominance or to alleviate anxiety.

The Clues

Obviously we have to figure out the reason for doing this.

You have given me some clues.

First, you mark in an area of great importance to you – the first landing on the stairs leading from the main floor to the upstairs. I understand that you love to sleep on specific stair treads, namely the fourth step from the main floor and the fourth step to the second floor. And frankly I can’t quite figure out the relationship between these particular steps and where you are urine marking so please bear with me. Stairs are important connecting corridors as well as places of height, and thus have significance for cat safety and defense. And I think you find these stairs quite a safe area if you are prepared to sleep on some of the treads. In other words, this seems to be an area of safely/security for you.

Second, you already use a litter box in a similar part of the other set of stairs (the basement stairs). And you prefurr it to using the box on the basement floor itself. So there is something about peeing on stair landings (heights) that pleases you.

Third, the incidents occur when you are ‘off’ which I take to mean, out of sorts. This has two versions:

Version 1: when you have been over-stimulated in playing with Skeeter (and are then separated). For Skeeter’s and your safety, you need to be separated when things go over the top. Most cats would then just settle down quietly, given separation and time. Skeeter seems to manage this but it is more difficult for you. Over-stimulation raises your anxiety level and I gather you have these high anxiety levels which are not coming down quickly enough, and so you mitigate them by depositing some urine for comfort in an area that is a significant source of security for you (the stairs).

I am assuming that if this is the cause of your urine marking, the incident occurs shortly after your time-out. Does it? Because if it does, then maybe one of Themselves could settle somewhere on the stairs at that time (that is, around the time that you may be due to mark) and just talk to you quietly. This is called a security bridge – something or someone who gives you an added sense of comfort and safety, thereby reducing your anxiety level. Sometimes the presence of the purrson you trust is all that it takes. Of course, IF you will allow petting then gentle, slow strokes will help calm you as well.

Version 2: when someone gets too close to you and you are not in the mood (e.g. hissing and being picked up). The examples given of your ‘not being in the mood’ suggest a higher anxiety level as well. So the explanation above would apply here, too. Obviously in this case, however, everyone needs to keep their distance from you rather than try to offer you support. However, I’d still recommend the purrson sitting on the stairs trick, but with the purrson ignoring you (say, reading a magazine) and leaving it up to you to choose to interact or not.

There is also the concern that even watching Skeeter play might trigger this. It is possible but I cannot comment on this further without visiting you in purrson (and we know that we are separated by a great distance). But in case this is a trigger, here are some things to try:

a) Is it possible for one of Themselves to encourage you to leave the area where the playing is taking place. Purrhaps the two of you could go elsewhere? Out of sight, out of mind. And you could do a food puzzle in your new location (see below). (You could also do it while Skeeter plays, in his presence.)

b) Ever tried food puzzles? I know you are very food-motivated. There are a variety of food puzzles that make you hunt and might just be the motivation you need to keep you occupied and intellectually satisfied while Skeeter is playing with his toys. That would be a lot more fun for you than just watching him at play. I have listed some resources at the end of this blog for further information on food puzzles.

Feliway. It is wonderful that your folks are using their funds to install diffusers on each floor of the house as well as spray for the stair area. And obviously they are conscientious about spot clean up. I do wonder, however, if they are following the instructions carefully enough. Just as a reminder:

a) In terms of marking, Feliway works best for spray marking, that is, urine deposition on walls or vertical surfaces. Is any of your marking of this nature? Because Feliway makes no claims for horizontal marking. Now that may be because most people cannot distinguish between horizontal marking and urination. I don’t know. So I’d continue with the Feliway spray just in case, but without huge expectations of miracles. The diffusers are serving another purpose and should be maintained anyway

b) While Themselves can clean up your marking with water or an odourless solution, make sure that whatever they use does not contain ammonia or bleach and scent as any of these elements can interfere with Feliway’s ability to do its job. I would normally recommend Stink Free as a cleaner (since Bud of Brandon gives it four paws up) but I’m not sure if it meets these criteria. So for whatever Themselves use, please make sure they check the ingredients list.

c) The area over which Feliway spray is used, must be clean and dry before Feliway itself is applied.

The Challenge of Horizontal Urine Marking

Horizontal marking is often confused with inappropriate elimination. The reasons for this are complex. Both kinds of urine can look the same. And many of us mark INSIDE out litter boxes as well as using them for urination. So it isn’t always easy to figure out. The bottom line is that we need to rule out two possibilities. One is that you really are just wanting to use the litter box and like that particular location. The reason I say that is not only because one of the most famous veterinary behaviourists (Dr. Karen Overall) says so but also because you’ve already shared your enjoyment of using the litter box on the downstairs’ landing. The other is that you may be amenable to doing your marking in a litter box is one is in the area. The way to test this out, it to put a litter box over the area in question and see if you use it. So please ask your folks to go ahead with this now.

A Summary of My Advice

1. Use a purrson as a security bridge on the stairs if and when it is practical to do so

2. Consider removing yourself from the scene if Skeeter’s play bothers you. Or distract yourself with food puzzles.

3. Make sure your purrsons are using the right kind of urine cleaner.

4. Make sure your purrsons are using Feliway correctly.

5. Install a litter box where you like to mark.

Now keep me posted and we’ll take it from there.

Oh, I almost forgot! Here is a list of resources about food puzzles (some of which can be purchased and some which your folks can make for you).

Resources for Food Puzzles

Articles:
Frederick Cat Vet Frederick Cat Vet Recommended:This site is by a veterinarian and this entry has 3 food puzzle toys that your folks can easily and inexpensively make for you - complete with photos!


Pet Place (This site has many articles and this particular one is by Dr. Dodman, a behaviourist. Scroll down to the part on food puzzles where he gives some suggestions of ones you can have your slaves make for you.

Videos:

 Alyona Russian Blues After watching interminable videos on You Tube, I found this excellent one on food puzzles. Be patient and watch the whole thing, because you will see many different puzzles - some you can buy (at least in Europe though I'm trying to find out if they are available in North America) and some you can make. Just be careful about the egg carton one; I'm concerned about the string for those of us who just can't resist such stuff and could get tangled or ingest it if not supervised. However, I'm confident there are other ways to seal the egg carton that could work just as well - so figure it out! All in all a worthwhile viewing - especially since these cats have a coat colour similar to mine.

Some Food Puzzles You Can Buy (in no particular order)

Note: Many food puzzles were first designed as a way of dealing with feline obesity. Don't take that purrsonally! Food puzzles provide intellectual stimulation and give you a chance to use your predatory drive. As such they are part of a program of overall environmental enrichment and can help alleviate both boredome and anxiety.

 Pipolino (This site has various videos of cats using the product as well as one on how Themselves can fill the toy with food. There is a user guide which can be downloaded, a store locator and an on-line store if the product is not available in your area.)

Feeding Frenzy (This toy is somewhat like Pipolino. The site has a video, FAQs, and the ability to order the toy on-line).

Cat Activity Fun Board (This site is from Germany. Make sure you choose English unless you speak German, of course. In the search box put Cat Activity Fun Board - otherwise you will have quite the time trying to find it. I'm not sure about availability in North America but this one is highly recommended for environmental enrichment. If I'm lucky, purrhaps Herself will get me one for the holidays (hint, hint) and then I can tell you more.

 Peek A Prize (Several different versions available, this is a high-end model of a simple puzzle box. While pricey, some of you might consider it IF you are 'hard' on toys or live with other cats who will give it a workout. My colleague Kahlua endorses this and she lives with several other cats.)

Best of luck Dash,
Greyce.

Continued Urine Marking and Peeing on the Bed is Just TOO Much!

I'm A Sensitive Guy

Dear Greyce,

I’m urine marking and peeing outside the box, yet again. I’ve marked towels near the door and in the kitchen, pillows on the bench by the door, picture frames, Himself’s desk, slippers, the microwave and the stove. I’ve also peed on the stove, the dining room table, and the spare bed.


You remember that I used to be a great stove marker and pee-er in response to the stand-off that my sister, Bailey, and I would have in the kitchen. Mom has left the stove covered with cooking pots and pans to discourage me and it usually works. One time I decided to fill a frying pan with pee; she has since replaced that pan with a tall covered pot. And she doesn’t have the courage to remove all the stuff and see if I will ignore the stove top. (I think she is smart about this, because that stove top really tempts me.)

What is concerning Themselves most is my wish to use the bed in the front bedroom as a urine depot. Mom has now covered the front bed with one of those plastic ‘thingys’ you get at a linen store (she did that before you wrote your article about the shower curtains). Out of desperation, she placed a litter box on the bed in the spot that I like to pee on. She put a large green plastic bag under the litter box to protect the bed linens. I decided that I liked peeing on the bag instead of the box. I’ve done this twice now. She’s okay with that - not thrilled; but it is easy for her to fold up the bag and toss it out - far easier that massive washloads.

Hard Poop

Dear Greyce, Remember me? I was the subject of your blog entry, Guess Why I Won't Use the Box? (3/14/10). I'm happy to say that my problem is solved. HOWEVER I have another one: I'm having a difficult time passing my stools which are so hard that I have to strain and that makes me pee a little. I've been checked by my vet (blood panel, too) and have been given a clean bill of health. Herself bought Laxatone but that seems to only work on fur balls and I don't have problems with those. I'd appreciate any suggestions you could give so that I can fianlly poop like I used to. Yours, Max

Jack's Dilemma

Hi Greyce, I’m a big, nine year old guy who is adjusting to a new home and I have a LOT of questions for you, related to three different matters: urine marking, a canine surprise, and feline rivalry. But first I’ll tell you a bit about myself.


I’d been in the SPCA shelter for several months housed together with Annabelle, a much smaller and somewhat older cat (age 10 years). Because shelter staff said we get along and because my new purrsons thought I could use the company, Annabelle and I moved together – about 10 days ago.