Cat No Longer Sprays! Indy Checks In

 Hi Greyce,

Blissed Out on the Deck

As you can see from this stunning photo, I am a very happy guy these days! It's warm enough to go outside, though I still don't like it when anyone comes in my yard (cats, deer, squirrels - you name it). I brought a nice, fat robin - live - into the house for Herself. She didn't appreciate it; but what's a guy to do when Mothers' Day is so close at paw?

Humans! Will we EVER understand them?

I AM behaving myself in the house. I get my medication (Clomicalm) every day and I am so much happier. I do not spray indoors anymore. 

Okay, there was a brief relapse one week when the folks were out of town. I will only take the pill from Himself so my caregiver delivered my medication by transdermal gel rubbed on my ear, instead. It doesn't work as well as my pill.


Thank you for all your help. Themselves thank you, too, for training them how to meet my needs properly.

Yippee! It's Spring!

Best,
Indy

Play Therapy for Anxious, Spraying Cat

Dear Readers,
My advice to Indy the long-term spraying cat continues. So far we've covered the issues of discipline, of medication, and of cleaning and dealing with his most recent pee spots. There will be more cleaning tips later. But today I want to discuss anxiety-reduction measures, starting with play therapy.

Cleaning Items Recently Sprayed with Cat Urine

Hi Greyce,

You asked about the items I have recently sprayed. Well the two new leather couches have been getting doused for the past three months. That wall in the basement behind the sofa has only been marked for a week. Right now because Themselves are away and the Daughter is my caregiver, I get to stay upstairs instead of being confined to the basement at night. Yippee! 

Yours,
Indy

Using Medication for Cat Urine Spraying

Dear Indy,

On February 8th, I posted the first in a series of entries to help you, a handsome Siamese, resolve your problem with spraying. As you can imagine, it will take some hard work on both our parts (and on the parts of your purrsons) to help you turn the situation around, especially since it has been going on for four years.

Feline urine spraying is considered a social problem because it is usually something in your social environment that requires adjustment in order to address the issue. You require a three-pronged approach: 1) changes to your physical environment, 2) a behavioural modification program, as well as 3) the use of a drug to lower your anxiety and set the stage for your to learn how to cope with the situation that set your spraying off in the first place.

If your problem had just started, it may have been able to be resolved without drugs. And some cats and their purrsons would prefer a non-drug alternative (such as a homeopathic remedy, a flower remedy or an herb). But you have been spraying for 4 years. The longer it goes on, the more likely the problem is to spread.

Since both you and your purrsons are frantic and you have been using a drug, We must deal with the matter of drugs.

Please bear with me as I provide a medication overview for the benefit of other readers, along with specific advice to you.


The Range of Medication Options

Many of the drugs used to deal with spraying fall into the category of anti-depressants and were developed originally for human use: they remove anxiety in some way. There is good reason to give an anti-anxiety drug, because anxiety is often a basic part of the problem.

These include:

Clomipramine (a tricyclic antidpressant, brands of which include Anafranil and Clomicalm). I know that this is the drug you take. Did you know that Clomicalm was originally developed for dogs who have separation anxiety? It is now used for cats as well.

Buspirone (a nonspecific anxiolytic/serotonin agonist whose trade name is BuSpar). It is particularly useful for dealing with spraying that is part of intercat aggression, so it might have come in handy when you were having problems with Nixon. It also increases confidence. It is a more expensive drug and it can take 4 to 6 weeks to reach safe, steady levels in the blood. So purrsons will not see results for about a month or so.

Amitriptyline (a tricyclic antidepressant whose trade name is Elavil). It facilitates normal social functioning; but may increase appetite and thirst.

Diazepam is a benzodiazepine whose brand name is Valium. It inhibits anxiety and increases appetite. Some cats cannot take it, because of problems with their livers.  While it interferes with learning and short-term memory, it sure helps you relax.

Nortriptyline is also a tricyclic antidepressant made under the name Pamelar.

And there are progestins (megestrol acetate; medroxyprogesterone acetate) which are used as the drug of last resort because they are associated with a host of potentially serious side-effects. Still they have their place.  Males may respond better to the use of this drug than females.

Obviously this is just a brief overview of some of the drugs used in cases like yours, Indy.

Most drugs have associated side-effects and these are useful to know in advance.  The most common side-effects include:
- Changes in appetite.
- Changes in activity level (notably lethargy) until you have adapted to the drug.
- Interference with or from other medications or supplements, depending on the circumstances.
- Gastro-intestinal upset (vomiting, diarrhea).

It usually takes some time to adapt to receiving a drug and for the first few days many of my colleagues who have taken such drugs find they are somewhat sleepy and uncoordinated. However if this continues for more than a few days, it likely means that the dose is too high and a phone call to the vet is very much in order to adjust it. On the other paw, some of my colleagues noticed no such effects: they were purrfectly fine from the first day. And the lack of a need for a few days of adjustment might be an indication that the dose is too small.

It may also take a while for your blood levels to stabilize, meaning that the drug has been received long enough that now your blood is on an even keel. You need to be patient. You need also to ask your vet what the usual adaptation period is.


Selecting the Best Drug for the Circumstance

It isn't always easy to select the drug that would work best. Different drugs work in different ways. Some are better than others, depending on the situation. But it is often difficult to understand fully the factors in your situation which are relevant. So you must have a vet you trust and have confidence in, to guide you.

Your vet will likely take the following into account:

-  the basis of your problem, coupled with his or her knowledge about and experience both with feline behaviour problems and with using a particular drug. The ability of your purrsons to specifically and accurately describe the situation is essential (and too often, they themselves don't know what is or is not relevant so your vet needs to be good at interviewing to pull the data from them).

- your health status and medical history because certain drugs may not be in your best interests to take.

- the results of a baseline blood profile to ensure that any liver or kidney issues are identified because drugs are processed through these organs. Some blood results influence which drugs can be safely given. In some cases, the vet also recommends a baseline EKG. (If your are on a drug for more than, say, 6 months, the vet will repeat the medical tests just to ensure your body can handle it.)

Indy, I understand that you have had bloodwork. Good for you!


Two Things You Should Know About Drug Selection

Some of us do well on one drug and not one another; but you really cannot tell that in advance. You may need to try it in order to find out.

That is why you need to know the side-effects and receive any warnings about effects that indicate that the drug is unsuitable. Vomiting is one example. You may need to switch if you experience an undesirable side-effect or if the drug is not working (yes, that does happen). For example, my colleague Tang was taking Clomicalm to deal with anxiety. It did nothing for him. Switching to Prozac gave him the results he needed. Now he is drug-free.

Some drugs can be delivered in a form which avoids a particular side-effect. For example, one of my colleagues (who had to adjust to a new cat companion) threw up on Elavil. But my guess is that if he had received it in a transdermal gel (which bypasses the gastro-intestinal system), this might have been avoided. So it depends.

Dosage may require adjusting. There is a range of dosage for a particular drug (based on body weight), but some of us require a somewhat different dose than was originally recommend.

For example, I happen to be particularly sensitive to certain drugs. During my last bout of pancreatitis the dosage on two drugs I was taking had to be lowered because I was hallucinating and became very vocal and restless; adjusting the dosage in one case, required special formulation (into very small capsules - done by a compounding pharmacy). But it made all the difference and I was able to get the benefits of the drugs without the problems.

In your case, Indy, the prolonged lethargy and loss of your coordination of your hindlegs when you started Clomicalm suggests the potential for dosage reduction - which is what your purrsons have done. In any such case, monitoring by your purrsons and close discussion with you vet should be able to resolve issues like these.

Medication Options: What Form Will Work Best for You?

While many drugs come in (or can be made into) various forms, most are dispensed as pills. Why? Because it tends to be the most common and thus least expensive form. But that doesnt' mean that it is the best form for you.

You rely on your purrson to dispense the pill to you. But not every purrson can easily pill a cat. And if every time you are to be pilled your anxiety rises along with that of your purrson, or you struggle, or you spit the pill out, what then is the point?

Indy, I know you are pilled and that you do not particularly enjoy it. Read on and figure out if there might be some other option you would prefurr.


Pills

Attention felines! If this is your chosen option, make sure your purrsons know how to pill you properly. Otherwise they will find the pill on the counter or the floor later in the day. Or they may find their arms shredded as they attempt to prop your mouth open.

In my opinion, your vet or a member of the clinic staff should show your purrson how it is done. Your purrson should have a chance to practice - under the supervision of a good piller. There are videos that can help. Click on Pill video 1, Pill video 2 and Pill video 3.

Another option is to hire a vet tech (say from your clinic) to come to your home and help. I made arrangements for this when I had to take Famotidine (a pill for acid reflux that needed to be split). Over the course of 10 days, a vet tech came to my home to teach Himself how to do it, including sharing her 'trick' of giving me about 1/2 ml of water in a syringe by mouth immediately after I had swallowed it, to help wash the pill down.

The first two days, Himself watched while she did the deed and described what she was doing. Then he started to try, under her supervision. Slowly he gained confidence because the tech was able to give him immediate feedback so he could correct what he was doing. And before the week was over, he was able to manage on his own. This made it far less stressful for both of us.

Because he was no longer anxious about pilling, I behaved like a purrfect lady. And once he got good at it, I wasn't even able to spit the pill out or otherwise hide it! Something in which most of us have great expertise. When he was anxious, I must admit to squirming, dancing around and generally being a brat. But with confidence, he relaxed and then, so did I. Besides with confidence, he was much faster, too.

So fellow felines, if your purrsons are not comfortable with pilling, I would suggest that they consider pilling lessons.

Many purrsons will try to put the pill in your food in the hope that you won't notice. This isn't always effective because pills taste 'funny' and are sometimes bitter and then we refuse to eat. Pills that are split or crushed are often the most easily rejected because they are so bitter. And some pills should NOT be taken with food (which the vet should tell you in the first place). If it is okay to do so, have your purrson put the pill in a very small amount of wet food and ensure you are hungry so you will eat it up.

Pill pockets  (from a pet supply store; some vets carry them too - a package is usually less than $10.00). As the name implies, these are pockets made of a soft snack food into which the pill is inserted to make it yummy on the outside. The key is to use tweezers to stick the pill in the pocket so your purrsons' fingers don't have ANY of the pill smell on them - because we cats are very sensitive to smell and that would cause rejection; then the purrson should use fingers (NOT those tweezers - which would have pill residue on them) to close the pocket.

When I was ill, I tolerated a pill pocket if my medication is given in the morning when I'm really hungry. And I got Himself to remove a little of the pocket because it is too large for my discriminating palate.

Pill Splitting: Sometimes the pill is too big and needs to be reduced in size.  Save yourself a pile of trouble and get a pill-splitter at the drug store. They are not expensive and they cut beautifully (compared to using a knife which often leaves a jagged edge or shatters to whole darn thing.)


Transdermal Gels

This is a gel applied to the skin on the inside of the upper ear where it is easily absorbed into the bloodstream. It is gently rubbed in by your purrson (who needs to wear a rubber glove or disposable finger cot, to s/he doesn't get a dose of the drug as well).

Many colleagues prefurr this method if they hate receiving pills (or their purrsons hate pilling). And it is a good way to avoid gastro-intestinal upset (like vomiting and diarrhea) because the drug doesn't need to pass through that part of the body before being absorbed into the bloodstream.

A gel is likely to cost more than a bottle of pills. But unless family finances are so tight that your purrsons have to choose between using a gel and paying the mortgage, this can be a good way to go - unless you absolutely detest having your ears rubbed. I vote for selected a compounding pharmacies that dispense this in a pen-like container that clicks out an exact, pre-measured dose so it becomes easy to give.


Liquids

Some drugs come in liquid form that can by syringed into your mouth. The liquid is drawn up in a syringe (without the needle) and squirted into your cheek pouch (rather than down your throat). This is best under the following circumstances:
- the dose is small,
- you are comfortable doing this,
- the liquid is either tasteless or has a pleasant (to felines) flavour.

Many liquids are bitter which defeats the purpose! But some drugs can be flavoured in cat-pleasing varieties (like tuna or chicken). You need to make sure that if it is specially compounded, that the flavour is one suitable for cats and not children; what self-respecting cat would want orange? You need to make sure BEFORE you go this route, that the flavouring completely masks the taste of the drug. Otherwise your purrsons will complain that its a pain under the tail to dose you. And you will likely squirm and foam at the mouth on receiving it.

I receive Meticam (an anti-inflammatory) by liquid and it is delicious because it tastes like honey. Meticam is best taken with a small meal. So I get a few treats beforehand, then the syringe, followed by a few treats as a reward. I find this to be most satisfactory.


Needles

Some drugs come this way but unless you have a member of your household who is a nurse or doctor, don't bother. Many vets won't allow needles to be dispensed unless you have a chronic condition that requires them and your purrson is trained in their use and disposal. Diabetic cats who require daily doses of insulin are often the ones who receive their drug in this way.


Patches

Some drugs come in a patch that is left on the skin for some time - just like those nicotine patches for purrsons who want to quit smoking. The drug releases over a longer time period. Some cats who require long-term pain medication receive it in this way.

It is very important that the patch be placed in such a way that you cannot pull it off. In your situation, I doubt that it is worth it - even if it was available.

In short: Drugs often come in more than one form. You need to select that one that is best for you - especially when using a drug that you will be taking for some time. And most drugs used for your problem are given for 6 to 12 months. My colleague, Moby, who was a champion sprayer of 17 sites in his apartment was on Clomicalm for an even longer period. The good news is that spraying is a thing of the past in his life. (See my entry, No More Urine Spraying! Moby's Update, of 3/3/11. You can follow Moby's whole story by putting his name in the search box on the left of my blog.)


Vital Information BEFORE You Take Your Drugs Home

Your purrsons should have all the information about this drug that they could possibly want. Remember: knowledge is power. I have put a checklist of things to ask about at the end of this entry.

Remind your purrsons that if they are at all uncertain  about the seriousness of a particular behaviour or symptom from the drug, they should call the vet ASAP! Better safe than sorry. The purrsons who procrastinates about this could be putting you in danger.

Remember the essentials: Right drug. Right form of it. Right dose - consistently given. And don't forget: If you try one drug and don't get results (after a suitable time period), don't be afraid to try something else.


Monitoring and Follow Up

I have already talked about monitoring in my previous entry. You need to keep records. Your purrsons  might think they know whether or not the drug is working - of course, they will have a general idea. But it is far more helpful to keep daily records of your spray frequency at each of your spray sites. You will be amazed at what evidence they provide.

Of course, your vet will want you to keep in contact. Many vets want you to touch base about every 6 to 8 weeks. In fact, many dispense drugs so that you only have enough for this period and have to request a refill. It is a good way for them to keep tabs on the situation.

Long-term use of a drug usually means that the vet will want blood work, to ensure that your organs are handling the drug well. The frequency of this depends on your situation (on you, the drug used, and your vet).

 
Weaning You Off the Drug

At some point, you may decide that you no longer need the drug. You MUST consult with your vet about a weaning process. Going cold turkey is not a recommended way for all drugs. Often your system needs to adapt to a drug-free state and you do this by systematically reducing the doses and/or frequency.

This is a veterinary matter. It is essential that you receive guidance from your vet on this.


Reasonable Expectations

Drugs are not a panacea. They are not magic. They cannot cure your problem by themselves. What they do is reduce the anxiety so that you can learn to manage your situation in a more appropriate way. But without changes to your physical environment and a behavioural program, the drug is unlikely to be successful. You really need all three. I say this because many purrsons use drugs as an excuse not to do the rest of the work (the cleaning, the space modification, and so on). Frankly, that is a recipe for failure.


Special Advice for You, Indy

Okay Indy, now that you have read this far you have a good overview about drugs and their uses. As I understand it, you have taken Clomicalm for some time. I have no idea how long 'some time' is. And I have no idea about what advice your veterinarian has provided.

I do know that you do not enjoy being pilled which is why I suggest you consider the possibility of receiving the drug in another form.

I do know that you receive the drug about once a week on an as-needed basis, as determined by your purrsons. I assume your veterinarian knows this and is in agreement. However I am concerned because I have never heard of this frequency of dosage being used. That doesn't mean it is wrong. It just means that in terms of my experience, it is unusual. For all I know, there may be special considerations.

What I fear is that by receiving the dose on such an ad hoc basis, there is little opportunity for it to be effective. It would not have the chance to stabilize in your bloodstream but would rather go up and down like a yoyo. I gather it gets you to 'chill out' because that is what it seems to be used for in your case. But exactly how is it affecting your frequency of spraying?

If this frequency of dosage is because the pill is too much for you, then please, please talk with your vet about a more reduced dose (or another drug) that you can handle on a daily basis.

Remember even if you take a pill, the dose can be reduced by compounding. That happened to me. I started on one-quarter of a pill (the smallest dose available) but it was too much for me. So it was compounded to cut even that dose in half, into very tiny capsules. And that made a huge difference for me.

Now Indy, I do understand that dosage is a veterinary matter. I am not a veterinarian. And even if I was, I am not your veterinarian. But you deserve a drug whose dosage and medication frequency helps you turn your problem around. And because of your special circumstances, I ask that you check with your veterinarian  - yet again. Just to be sure.

And as promised, that checklist I mentioned, follows below my signature.

I wish you the very best. Stay tuned for the next installment of my advice to you - in the next few days.

Purrs from Greyce

CHECKLIST:

QUESTIONS TO ASK YOUR VETERINARIAN ABOUT MEDICATION

1.      What form(s) does this drug come in? (e.g., tablet, capsule, topical gel, liquid, powder, injectable – if pilling is an issue).

2.      What changes can be expected, with using this drug? How long does it usually take before I should be able to notice some change?

3.      How long does it usually take before my body will have fully adjusted to the drug? During the intervening period are there any symptoms to watch out for (e.g., lethargy, changes in appetite)?

        

4.      What are the side-effects? How common are they? Will they last while I am on the drug or only until s/he I get used to it?

5.      Should I call you if I notice any side-effects? Is it important that I call as soon as I notice them?

6.      How often should I receive this drug (e.g., daily, twice daily, etc.)?

7.      How do I administer this drug? Ask the vet to show you and well as tell you how – whether it is a pill, a liquid, a gel or whatever.

8.      Can I crush it and mix it in food or a treat? Note: some can’t be crushed because the pill is too bitter; others must be given on an empty stomach; still others must be given with food to avoid stomach upset.

9.      Is it okay to use pill pockets?

10.    Is there anything I should NOT be taking, while on this drug (e.g. herbs, homeopathic remedies, supplements, specific food treats)? NOTE: You must tell you vet about all the supplements you may be taking - like fish oil, or extra fiber, or flower remedies. Many purrsons forget to do this on your behalf, but these can affect pharmaceuticals and they way they act in your system. Make sure you tell your vet in advance. And if you get the urge to add something to your routine later, make sure you ask your vet before doing so.

11.    Should it be given with food? Sometimes it’s O.K. with food or if you have just eaten something. Others have to be given on an empty stomach which means you cannot leave the food bowl down between meals.        

12.    What should I do if I miss a dose?

        

13.    What should I do if I accidentally overdose? Example: You upset the bottle and eat more than one pill.

14.    What should I do if another pet gets the drug, instead?

15.    What follow-up is required? When?

16.    How long will I be on this drug?

17.    How do I take myself off this drug? Note: It can be very dangerous to go off a drug cold turkey. Consult with your veterinarian FIRST, to keep you safe.

18.    Who should I call if I have any questions or problems?

        

19.    Who should I call if I have any problems AND the veterinary clinic is closed?

20.    Is it okay to start the medication at the beginning of the week? That way if you notice side-effects you can easily contact the clinic during regular hours (since many have limited weekend hours).

 

Cat Sprays Walls and Furniture. What Can Be Done?

Dear Greyce,

Help!

Themselves are at their wit's end because of my interior decoration efforts over the past four years. According to Themselves my habit is driving them crazy, damaging furniture and impacting social visits. You see, Greyce, I enhance my home with urine - a lot of urine - in a lot of places. 

Victory over Cat Urine and Intercat Aggression: Minou's Marvellous Makeover

Dear Greyce,

It has been a few months since we got your advice. (See entry The Urine Marking and Cat Fighting Combo  of April 5, 2012). As you will recall, I as peeing a lot, fighting with Cassie, my feline companion, and Themselves were about to deal with a kitchen renovation and add to another potential tail-grabber to the family. It's been a busy time.

Despite your advice to board us during the kitchen renovation, Himself was adamant that we stay in the basement by day and be given free reign by night to check out the day's progress. We made it through three weeks of demolition and reconstruction with only one (yes, just one!) peeing incident in the basement and one peeing incident in the kitchen when the contractor left one of his drop cloths on the floor. He said this has happened before, so no doubt we smelled the other animals and felt the need to mark our territory. And that is why I don't think that particular incident should even count.

Herself ordered the Anti -Icky-Poo and the pre-treatment on-line to remove the residue of any previous cleaners used and well as residual urine. She cleaned every spot we have ever peed on and it seems to have worked as we have not peed in any of these places since! Well worth the $60 they paid, especially compared to the hundreds they previously spent on cleaners. 

Himself also removed some of the trim and baseboards I had peed on, cleaned and sprayed underneath them, then replaced them with new pieces.

At the front entrance where we always peed repeatedly he did the same. And for good measure they placed a SSSCAT sprayer that has a motion sensor and scares me away with a spray of air if I get too close.

Himself has been keeping on top of our litter box cleanliness and Herself now consistently buys the litter which has worked well for us and minimized odours (Catit Multi-Cat Litter).

There are fewer places for me to corner Cassie and fight because of the new kitchen layout, as well as Themselves giving us each our own eating spot. And they separated our water on its own, away from our food.

They are still using Feliway on each of the two floors we are allowed on and this seems to help. We are still barred from the bedrooms.

Overall things are pretty good. Even new Baby Himself hasn't caused us any noteworthy stress. And all of the visitors who come to adore him give us lots of extra love. It is nice having Herself home everyday, too.

So thanks again for the great advice.You seriously saved me!

With gratitude,
Minou

_____________________

Dear Minou,

I am purring with delight at the thought of a much happier household for all of you and most particularly for Cassie and yourself. Keep up the good work!

And readers, please note that I added links to the products Minou mentioned because inquiring cats will want to know.

Whisker kisses,
Greyce

The Urine Marking & Cat Fighting Combo

Dear Greyce,

I am a beautiful, 9-year-old, spayed female with a complicated problem: I pee all over the house and I fight with my feline sister, Cassie. And this has been going on for a long time.

Progress for Cat Who Pees Along Periphery of Rooms

Dear Greyce,


I am doing much better now, having followed your advice. Here is what you suggested and the progress I have made:

• Keeping separated from Misty (who hates me) and very much later attempting a very much slower re-introduction. Misty and I now time-share space so we don't get into one another's whiskers. This has made a BIG difference. I am much more relaxed.

• Educating my folks about cat communication. Not much to report here, yet.

• Getting more play and stimulation. I'm getting more play. I really, really like one fishing pole toy in particular.

• Using Feliway on my spray spots. I'm using it on all pee spots. And I'm peeing outside the box less. I used to pee about 2 or 3 times a day. Now I'm down to about once every 2 or 3 days.

• Doing something about my relationship with Indy - but later. We'll deal with that when you give me advice - later.

Where I still like to pee

Now, I need more advice. I still have one favourite area in which I like to pee, as shown on the accompanying layout. Can you help me stop peeing there?


Yours,
Meeka

No More Urine Spraying! Moby's Update

Dear Greyce,  

When I lasted contacted you (Moby's News - 7/6/10) I had stopped my medications and had started to consistently use my litter box. In other words, I had really turned a corner.

So I thought you might like an update.

I use my litter box faithfully and no longer spray.

Finally I've come to terms with my feline companion, Mick. He has his issues but I stay out of his way and so we 'live and let live'.

I adore my purrsons and they treat me like a king.

So life is good . . . VERY good!

Yours,
Moby

The Pee Fest Has Stopped: Smooshie's Update

Dear Greyce,

Just touching base to let you know of my progress (see Smooshie's Pee fest - 2/9/11). Now that the Feliway diffuser and spray are being used as suggested I have consistently used my litter boxes. I'm especially enjoying my second box (downstairs) because a woman really does like choice. And I am getting more play time!

Yippee!!
Smooshie

Smooshie's Pee Fest: Vertical Urine Marking (also known as Spraying)

Dear Greyce,



It’s been quite a while since I last wrote you. And you were great at designing a new litter box for me – which I love. I’m now 8 years old and have a new problem: I spray walls, piddle on carpet, and have even pooped outside the box! My latest urine tests show that I don’t have a medical problem. So Greyce, what’s going on?

Cat Peeing From Over-Excitement or Anxiety: An Update From Dash

Hi Greyce,



Since you last wrote about me (Small Bits of Urine - A Big Problem for Dash on 11/17/10), I have been making progress. Themselves are getting much better at noticing my behaviour and while my scent marking (urine on the stairs) continues upstairs, the frequency has changed. Instead of day-to-day, I have gone for a week or more without feeling the need to mark that spot.


So I am doing well even though I continue peeing outside the litter box at times, mostly in the basement where Skeeter and I stay when Themselves are not home.



There seem to be three triggers:


1. Herself notices that some of my urine spots are fresh when she gets home. She thinks I become really over-excited at hearing the garage door open (signaling her return) and then I just pee.


2. Sometimes if we have been in the basement all day and beyond our usual dinner time, accidents will happen too.


3. Sometimes it is just a sign that the litter boxes are not to my liking. You may remember that we have two basement litter boxes: one on the landing and one on the floor. Skeeter used to use the one on the floor; but he started to use the landing one as well and it would fill rather quickly.


Good news though, both are now downstairs and next to each other. I use both: one for urine and one for feces.


By the way, Themselves also leave us out for most nights (instead of keeping us in the basement) and I either sleep with them on the bed (Skeeter is there too), or I stay on the same floor in my most favorite cat bed. So slowly I am adapting.


Thank you again for your help,


Dash



Dear Dash,

It is always good to hear of your progress. I'm going to write about those three triggers for peeing outside the box and offer some suggestions. But first, my dear, ARE making progress. Congratulations on having Themselves improve their observational skills. Careful observation is the first step in gathering the clues by which they can help you adapt even more.

Since the beginning of our consultative relationship, I’ve remarked that you are a most anxious cat. And I do know that it was unlikely that you had household socialization at the proper time in your kitten hood. So developing into a more resilient pet will continue to be your life challenge. Nonetheless you have made significant progress.

You mention three triggers for peeing outside the box when you are in the basement.

1. Over-excitement on Herself’s return. That just shows how anxious a cat you are. Some of us become so happy or relieved that our purrson has returned that we just lose bladder control. Believe me, it can happen to humans, too.

I wonder if Themselves make a fuss over the two of you, both when they leave the house and when they return. If they are doing this (and it would be understandable), then they need to modify their behaviour a bit. Some of us just get so emotionally excited that it becomes a stressor.

I hate to mention it but dogs (yes dogs) with separation anxiety, often react (get stressed) by their purrson’s departures and arrivals. The solution in both cases is to diffuse the emotionality around the going and coming into the home. This simply means that instead of making any fuss when they leave or re-enter, they need to do so is a less emotionally-charged way. For example suppose when they return, they immediately go downstairs and greet the two of you and pet you and cuddle you and dance with you and give you treats. Wow! But that ‘wow’ would be to much for you. Much better if instead they just said, “I’m home” and opened up the basement door to let you come up. And then just went about their chores.

Ditto when they leave. If they are giving you special cuddles and whispers and the like, they are inadvertently having you focus on the fact that they will be gone; and that can be anxiety-provoking. Instead ask them to consider giving you a home-made food puzzle to keep you occupied, then say ‘good-bye’ in a nonchalant way and close the basement door.

Let me know if this is relevant and if the proposed solution is helpful to you.

2. Dinner being late. Yeah, I get it. Any deviation from your expected schedule makes you anxious. It sounds to me like you are wearing your telepathic cat watch and when Themselves are late, you worry that they have been bagged by a predator!

If this is problematic, they MIGHT consider an automatic feeder with a timer, so that dinner can happen at the same time every day and thus becomes less worrisome for you. If you decide to go this route (and is the ONLY an option NOT a directive from me), keep in mind your fear of novelty (which I will address in a separate blog entry) in introducing you to this device.

Another option is to have them start to vary their return times (starting with a five-minute variance) but that is likely too difficult in logistics for them to manage at this time. However, if you are interested in how this would work, let me know.

3. Litter box cleanliness. It sounds like their observational skills are improving. Congratulations for getting them to move the boxes so that you and Skeeter can use the boxes properly. And do make sure they keep to a regular cleaning schedule. A daily clean is what I advocate. Even though I live without the presence of others of my species, I insist on a daily clean so I don’t have to navigate over aromatic lumps and bumps while I attend to my needs.

And as for peeing upstairs. It sounds like that issue is getting under control. I do think much of that is related to over-excitement. You need to have those good workouts and yet be helped to return to a calmer state at the end of them. It’s like doing aerobics at the gym; at the end you need to slow down and stretch or you will continue to be so wound up that you aren’t fit to live with! At least that’s what I understand purrsons go through.

Keep up the good work,

Greyce

Cat Pee on the Bed: Bear's Saga Continues

Dear Greyce,

Since I last wrote (see Continued Urine Marking - Nov. 8, 2010), the spare bed has been decorated twice with my urine.

Herself is just not sure what to do. She is tempted to close our door during the day so we can’t use that room. That said, most recent incidents happened first thing in the morning when they were still home.

They already close their own bedroom door when they are not at home (because I have had a peeing history there) and that is the only other window access room on the ground floor. Well to tell you the truth, there is the front door window but no comfy reclining spots there.
What can I say? I pee on beds! Help!


Should they leave a plastic bag on top of the bed linens? Should the litter box sit on top of the bed? Or beside it? (Himself’s fear is that a litter box on the bed will teach me that a bed is an okay place to pee and that might translate to their room too.)

Oh, there has been tons of cuddling and lots of play – as you recommended for dealing with any anxiety. I really like my laser toy. That dot is fun to chase. It is one of the only toys that I will actually go after when my sister is in the room. The rest of the toys need a closed door room and even then I am not so sure about chasing them as I know she is outside the door waiting for her turn.

Thank you for your continued support. So sorry to keep bugging you!

Sincerely,
Bear






Dear Bear,


You are not bugging me. In fact, you are helping my readers understand how complicated it is to implement behavioural change. Even though general principles apply, every situation is different. And yet success is all in the details.


So I’m grateful that you are providing me with the details that have been difficult for you. If we can clarify those, then we can get on with the program – and hopefully with success.


It seems to me that you feel the need to mark the bed. I know, I know, it’s a lot of urine that you deposit and some would say you are urinating and not marking. As I said to Dash (just today, in the entry, Small Bits of Urine), it is awfully difficult to distinguish some cases of horizontal urine marking from cases of urination. Some cats (and I suspect you are one of them) like to mark as well as pee in the same place – even in their litter boxes. And the solutions to marking and inappropriate elimination problems are different.


I suspect that there is a marking element – that your pheromonal code on that bed has dissipated over time and you are refreshing it with your urine. Purrhaps you see this as part of your daily duty, to mark significant areas as the household rises for the day. It would be wonderful if you would mark with check rubs, instead.


I also suspect that bed peeing has something to do with the fact that beds in both bedrooms – for you have a past history of peeing on both - are near windows with views of your grounds. Most of us feel that windows are areas of vulnerability. Purrsons say they are safe because windows are solid; but there sure don’t look solid to us!


So what do I think? I think you are marking and may even be peeing, too. I think it likely relates to feeling vulnerable and that the windows are a contributing factor. And as for choosing the bed, rather than the window itself? I think it’s largely due to your preferences for soft surfaces and fabrics – like your penchant for peeing on pillows.


I know that peeing on the bed is a difficult issue – both for some cats (like you) and for their purrsons.


Right now it seems as if you and beds are like my Herself and chocolate. Herself has a passion for chocolate especially during the winter months. Even though it is contributing to added pounds and she knows she should not imbibe, its mere presence is such a strong attractant that blind desire obscures all reason. Hence the need to ban chocolate from the premises (even though Himself adores it).


In the same vein, it seems that mere access to the spare bedroom draws you to marking the bed. So for now, I vote for keeping the door closed – at the very least for the times when Themselves are not at home. And yes, I am aware that you’ve peed on the beds in the early morning, when the folks are at home. My prefurrence right now is to see how things will work out if both bedroom doors are kept closed. Of course, we will monitor the situation and adjust as needed.


If they feel the need to keep the door to the spare room open for any period of time, then 1) the litter box should stay beside the bed and 2) the garbage bag – or preferably a liquid-proof bedwetting pad should be over the target area, and 3) they should consider spraying that pad with Feliway (assuming they have some of the spray bottle left over from your last escapades) to discourage you from marking it.


I believe I’d mentioned the box location in my last entry to you. But it was buried in some of my comments and purrhaps you didn’t see it. From what I recall from the floorplan you sent me, they could try the box either beside the part of the bed you most pee on OR on the side of the bed closest to the window (which may be a triggering factor). If they use Feliway on the bed itself, then I suggest the box go on the side nearer the window (just because it will be away from the Feliway).


I’d rather you NOT have a litter box on top of the bed because that is a very difficult location. As a temporary measure it may be fine; but I think we are heading for the long haul, here.

I suggest a box near your ‘decorating’ place but NOT on it because of your history. For example, when you wrote me about your peeing-on-the-stove problem, you then installed a litter box in the kitchen; you were able to use that box instead of the stove top. Now let’s not get into the fact that you’d still really like the stove top. All I’m saying is that given a nearby alternative, you have shown that you will use it. You have been using it, haven’t you?


As for the bed pad and Feliway. I would hope that the Feliway spray (not diffuser) would encourage you to use the nearby box. But that is a hope and not a certainty. Just make sure your folks follow the instructions for clean up (no produces with ammonia, bleach or scent AND using Feliway only once the pad is dry). They also need to pay attention to using Feliway when the bedroom is open and before you come in.


And before I leave the subject of cats and pee on beds, there is one other possible solution but it is very expensive. They could replace the guest bed with a Murphy bed (the link given is only one site) that is, a bed that folds up into the wall when not in use. (It looks like a very attractive wood panel when closed.) It’s a very popular solution in places like New York City where space is at a premium; and it is a way to have the use of the bed when needed, but keep temptation out of your way when not. Now this is quite costly and could affect your toy and catnip supply for some time. So it is not a solution to be taken at all lightly. Try the others, first.


The window viewing issue is an important one. I am not a fan of having you watch through the front door window and with both bedroom doors closed, your options are limited on this floor. Remember, you already have anointed items in the front hall – likely as a result of seeing or smelling roaming cats. But don’t forget, you do have a favourite viewing area at the stairs (that you showed me on your floorplan) so I hope that would do, instead.


If you absolutely must use the front door as your ground floor viewing area, just remember: no pillows for you. If Herself still has some Feliway spray leftover, then suggest she give the door a bit of a spritz at cat level a couple of times a day. You can with the bedroom doors closed, access to the front door window and Feliway first, and see what happens.


Now about that issue with toys and Bailey. There is obviously something about your relationship that intimidates you. Do you think food puzzles would be a solution, as something that might interest you while Bailey is doing other things? Read today's entry to Dash (metioned earlier) which talks about food puzzles among other things, and think about it. It’s just a suggestion, not an order.


And do keep in touch and let me know how things go.


I’m rooting for you Bear,


Greyce

Small Bits of Cat Urine - A Big Problem for Dash

Dear Greyce,

I have a problem. Recently I have started to pee in the upstairs stairwell (the one that connects the main floor to the upstairs). Before I go into the particulars, I will provide more information about my circumstances.

My Background

I am a neutered male, short-haired tabby with extra claws on my paws (I have 16 front toes and 10 back ones) and am somewhere between 2.5 and 4 years old. I was hosted by the local animal shelter for many months where I was listed as a cat with issues related to anger displacement. But after a thorough veterinary examination, it did not appear that I’d be a threat to my new purrsons. In July (2010) I was fortunate to be adopted along with Skeeter, a 1.5 year-old neutered male tabby to keep me company.

We live in a house which has three storeys: bedrooms on one floor, main (and open) living area on another, and an unfinished walk-out basement where we spend time while our purrsons are away at work and where we sleep at night. Our purrsons are good to us and I have no real complaints.

Skeeter and I get along quite well. We play fight, groom each other, and he often cuddles into me when we sleep. I am the dominant cat and especially like to hog food bowls. But Skeeter takes this philosophically – just backing away when I stick my snout in. I am VERY food-motivated. If I can find it and eat it, then it’s been a great day.

I am very active. I jump on all surfaces and get sprayed by a water bottle for it. It’s okay for me to be on beds or couches.

I am also very curious. I want to climb in the fridge, check out what’s in the sink, go into any open cupboard. I sit on the window ledges on the main floor, look out the back door and check everything out.

But I have a fear of novelty. For example, I was traumatized by the treadmill so much that Themselves covered it up. (I started to pee outside the litter box, get nervous about being in the basement, you name it.) And only recently have I regained the nerve to explore it (thought it’s still covered up as you recommended).

Skeeter likes to play with toys way more than I do. But I love playing in my nylon tent, jumping into boxes and bags and playing with a long string of fleece attached to stick dragged round by Themselves. They play with us every morning while changing their clothes and when they get home at night.

But sometimes our play fighting gets out of hand (or should I say, paw). I grab, bite and pin Skeeter down by holding him at the back of the neck. He hisses in reply. I guess I become over-stimulated. But now Themselves break us up if this happens and we are both given a time-out – just like you advised.

When I contacted you, you gave me lots of good advice: about Feliway, interactive play, and all sorts of things. For the most part, I have been learning to trust my new home and its inhabitants.

Back to The Problem

Recently I have started to pee in the upstairs stairwell (the one the connects the main floor to the upstairs). Themselves have cleaned it with a non-detergent cleaner and sprayed Feliway in the corner. This started about a month ago and so far has happened about four times. It only happens in the evening (since most daytimes we are down the basement when our folks are at work).

I am leaving small bits of urine there. But I continue to use our litter boxes: one on the basement stairwell which I use faithfully, and one in the basement itself.

Sometimes they catch me in the act and sometimes they just notice the scent when I have left. Once I was caught about to do it, and was encouraged successfully to use my litter box instead.

They say thee pee events happen when I am ‘off’ – I’ve either gotten carried away with Skeeter and we’ve had to be separated, or I’ve hissed at Skeeter, or I’ve made growling noises when one of them has picked me up.

Why am I doing this Greyce? I love these stairs. I have particular steps on which I like to sleep. Am I jealous of Skeeter’s independent play since he is much more playful – even though we both get daily play sessions?

Just so you know, Greyce, we have three Feliway diffusers (one for each floor) and Themselves use Feliway spray on the stairs and surrounding walls.

Any advice you can give me would be appreciated.
Yours,
Dash



Dear Dash,

First of all, congratulations on your excellent progress in adjusting to you new home! You have been through a great deal of change and are handling it well. You have special needs and will likely be less resilient than many, which means you need some special care and lots of patience.

Now let me cut to the chase, and get on to the topic at hand: Urine marking.

What Urine Marking Is

Small bits of urine indicate urine marking, rather than urination. At least they do to me. In other words, you are engaged in marking behaviour rather than urination (going to the bathroom, so to speak). Marking is a time-honoured method by which we purrsonalize our territory, communicate with other cats, and help us orient and feel comfortable. As you know, there are four kinds of marking – rubbing against things, scratching things, spraying or depositing small bits of urine, and depositing feces without burial. And they are arranged in order, meaning that we usually rub against things; but if we become more anxious (or concerned about asserting dominance) than we go up a notch or two – to scratching or urine deposition. So the bottom line is that urine marking gives you confidence by surrounding you with your own smell. It can be use to demonstrated dominance or to alleviate anxiety.

The Clues

Obviously we have to figure out the reason for doing this.

You have given me some clues.

First, you mark in an area of great importance to you – the first landing on the stairs leading from the main floor to the upstairs. I understand that you love to sleep on specific stair treads, namely the fourth step from the main floor and the fourth step to the second floor. And frankly I can’t quite figure out the relationship between these particular steps and where you are urine marking so please bear with me. Stairs are important connecting corridors as well as places of height, and thus have significance for cat safety and defense. And I think you find these stairs quite a safe area if you are prepared to sleep on some of the treads. In other words, this seems to be an area of safely/security for you.

Second, you already use a litter box in a similar part of the other set of stairs (the basement stairs). And you prefurr it to using the box on the basement floor itself. So there is something about peeing on stair landings (heights) that pleases you.

Third, the incidents occur when you are ‘off’ which I take to mean, out of sorts. This has two versions:

Version 1: when you have been over-stimulated in playing with Skeeter (and are then separated). For Skeeter’s and your safety, you need to be separated when things go over the top. Most cats would then just settle down quietly, given separation and time. Skeeter seems to manage this but it is more difficult for you. Over-stimulation raises your anxiety level and I gather you have these high anxiety levels which are not coming down quickly enough, and so you mitigate them by depositing some urine for comfort in an area that is a significant source of security for you (the stairs).

I am assuming that if this is the cause of your urine marking, the incident occurs shortly after your time-out. Does it? Because if it does, then maybe one of Themselves could settle somewhere on the stairs at that time (that is, around the time that you may be due to mark) and just talk to you quietly. This is called a security bridge – something or someone who gives you an added sense of comfort and safety, thereby reducing your anxiety level. Sometimes the presence of the purrson you trust is all that it takes. Of course, IF you will allow petting then gentle, slow strokes will help calm you as well.

Version 2: when someone gets too close to you and you are not in the mood (e.g. hissing and being picked up). The examples given of your ‘not being in the mood’ suggest a higher anxiety level as well. So the explanation above would apply here, too. Obviously in this case, however, everyone needs to keep their distance from you rather than try to offer you support. However, I’d still recommend the purrson sitting on the stairs trick, but with the purrson ignoring you (say, reading a magazine) and leaving it up to you to choose to interact or not.

There is also the concern that even watching Skeeter play might trigger this. It is possible but I cannot comment on this further without visiting you in purrson (and we know that we are separated by a great distance). But in case this is a trigger, here are some things to try:

a) Is it possible for one of Themselves to encourage you to leave the area where the playing is taking place. Purrhaps the two of you could go elsewhere? Out of sight, out of mind. And you could do a food puzzle in your new location (see below). (You could also do it while Skeeter plays, in his presence.)

b) Ever tried food puzzles? I know you are very food-motivated. There are a variety of food puzzles that make you hunt and might just be the motivation you need to keep you occupied and intellectually satisfied while Skeeter is playing with his toys. That would be a lot more fun for you than just watching him at play. I have listed some resources at the end of this blog for further information on food puzzles.

Feliway. It is wonderful that your folks are using their funds to install diffusers on each floor of the house as well as spray for the stair area. And obviously they are conscientious about spot clean up. I do wonder, however, if they are following the instructions carefully enough. Just as a reminder:

a) In terms of marking, Feliway works best for spray marking, that is, urine deposition on walls or vertical surfaces. Is any of your marking of this nature? Because Feliway makes no claims for horizontal marking. Now that may be because most people cannot distinguish between horizontal marking and urination. I don’t know. So I’d continue with the Feliway spray just in case, but without huge expectations of miracles. The diffusers are serving another purpose and should be maintained anyway

b) While Themselves can clean up your marking with water or an odourless solution, make sure that whatever they use does not contain ammonia or bleach and scent as any of these elements can interfere with Feliway’s ability to do its job. I would normally recommend Stink Free as a cleaner (since Bud of Brandon gives it four paws up) but I’m not sure if it meets these criteria. So for whatever Themselves use, please make sure they check the ingredients list.

c) The area over which Feliway spray is used, must be clean and dry before Feliway itself is applied.

The Challenge of Horizontal Urine Marking

Horizontal marking is often confused with inappropriate elimination. The reasons for this are complex. Both kinds of urine can look the same. And many of us mark INSIDE out litter boxes as well as using them for urination. So it isn’t always easy to figure out. The bottom line is that we need to rule out two possibilities. One is that you really are just wanting to use the litter box and like that particular location. The reason I say that is not only because one of the most famous veterinary behaviourists (Dr. Karen Overall) says so but also because you’ve already shared your enjoyment of using the litter box on the downstairs’ landing. The other is that you may be amenable to doing your marking in a litter box is one is in the area. The way to test this out, it to put a litter box over the area in question and see if you use it. So please ask your folks to go ahead with this now.

A Summary of My Advice

1. Use a purrson as a security bridge on the stairs if and when it is practical to do so

2. Consider removing yourself from the scene if Skeeter’s play bothers you. Or distract yourself with food puzzles.

3. Make sure your purrsons are using the right kind of urine cleaner.

4. Make sure your purrsons are using Feliway correctly.

5. Install a litter box where you like to mark.

Now keep me posted and we’ll take it from there.

Oh, I almost forgot! Here is a list of resources about food puzzles (some of which can be purchased and some which your folks can make for you).

Resources for Food Puzzles

Articles:
Frederick Cat Vet Frederick Cat Vet Recommended:This site is by a veterinarian and this entry has 3 food puzzle toys that your folks can easily and inexpensively make for you - complete with photos!


Pet Place (This site has many articles and this particular one is by Dr. Dodman, a behaviourist. Scroll down to the part on food puzzles where he gives some suggestions of ones you can have your slaves make for you.

Videos:

 Alyona Russian Blues After watching interminable videos on You Tube, I found this excellent one on food puzzles. Be patient and watch the whole thing, because you will see many different puzzles - some you can buy (at least in Europe though I'm trying to find out if they are available in North America) and some you can make. Just be careful about the egg carton one; I'm concerned about the string for those of us who just can't resist such stuff and could get tangled or ingest it if not supervised. However, I'm confident there are other ways to seal the egg carton that could work just as well - so figure it out! All in all a worthwhile viewing - especially since these cats have a coat colour similar to mine.

Some Food Puzzles You Can Buy (in no particular order)

Note: Many food puzzles were first designed as a way of dealing with feline obesity. Don't take that purrsonally! Food puzzles provide intellectual stimulation and give you a chance to use your predatory drive. As such they are part of a program of overall environmental enrichment and can help alleviate both boredome and anxiety.

 Pipolino (This site has various videos of cats using the product as well as one on how Themselves can fill the toy with food. There is a user guide which can be downloaded, a store locator and an on-line store if the product is not available in your area.)

Feeding Frenzy (This toy is somewhat like Pipolino. The site has a video, FAQs, and the ability to order the toy on-line).

Cat Activity Fun Board (This site is from Germany. Make sure you choose English unless you speak German, of course. In the search box put Cat Activity Fun Board - otherwise you will have quite the time trying to find it. I'm not sure about availability in North America but this one is highly recommended for environmental enrichment. If I'm lucky, purrhaps Herself will get me one for the holidays (hint, hint) and then I can tell you more.

 Peek A Prize (Several different versions available, this is a high-end model of a simple puzzle box. While pricey, some of you might consider it IF you are 'hard' on toys or live with other cats who will give it a workout. My colleague Kahlua endorses this and she lives with several other cats.)

Best of luck Dash,
Greyce.

Continued Urine Marking and Peeing on the Bed is Just TOO Much!

I'm A Sensitive Guy

Dear Greyce,

I’m urine marking and peeing outside the box, yet again. I’ve marked towels near the door and in the kitchen, pillows on the bench by the door, picture frames, Himself’s desk, slippers, the microwave and the stove. I’ve also peed on the stove, the dining room table, and the spare bed.


You remember that I used to be a great stove marker and pee-er in response to the stand-off that my sister, Bailey, and I would have in the kitchen. Mom has left the stove covered with cooking pots and pans to discourage me and it usually works. One time I decided to fill a frying pan with pee; she has since replaced that pan with a tall covered pot. And she doesn’t have the courage to remove all the stuff and see if I will ignore the stove top. (I think she is smart about this, because that stove top really tempts me.)

What is concerning Themselves most is my wish to use the bed in the front bedroom as a urine depot. Mom has now covered the front bed with one of those plastic ‘thingys’ you get at a linen store (she did that before you wrote your article about the shower curtains). Out of desperation, she placed a litter box on the bed in the spot that I like to pee on. She put a large green plastic bag under the litter box to protect the bed linens. I decided that I liked peeing on the bag instead of the box. I’ve done this twice now. She’s okay with that - not thrilled; but it is easy for her to fold up the bag and toss it out - far easier that massive washloads.

Moby's News

Dear Readers, You might remember Moby, the cat who was having difficulty with his companion, Mick and was also a champion indoor sprayer (blog entry, The Pungent Scents of Comfort. Urine Marking #4 - January 26, 2010). Here is his latest news.

Dear Greyce, I just wanted to update you on my progress.  I have been off my meds for two months and I have been using a new litter which is scented - for two weeks. And these last two weeks, I have been urinating INSIDE the box!

Mick and I still have our moments. Also I hang out with a couple of neighbor cats but we don't fight. I don't wander very much anymore because I prefurr to hang with my human family and Mick.

Best wishes, Moby

Moby My Man! Congratulations!! You are making excellent progress. I will keep my paws crossed that your prefurrence for your new litter becomes permanent and that you continue using the box. You've come a long way. I'm so proud of you I'm going to roll in some catnip! Greyce

What Good is Feliway? Suzi's Series 6

Dear Greyce, You said you would tell me why Feliway isn’t working in our household. You will recall that Herself bought a diffuser and installed it in our living room. While it has stopped us from scratching the sofa, it hasn’t made a difference in Sissi’s or Jack’s attacks on me. Why isn’t it working?

De-potting the Stove

Dear Greyce, I would like to ask a question on behalf of Herself. But first, I want to remind you of my history, just in case you forgot. Your last entry about me was Bear-y Good News (4/1/10).

As you know I used to pee on the kitchen stove because my sister, Bailey, and I would have tiffs there. She’d be high above the cupboards and I’d be on the counter by the stove having an argument. And I’d pee to mark my spot. You suggested that Herself cover the stove elements with pots to discourage me and to keep me and the stove safe. You also suggested I get a litter box for the kitchen. Here is what the stove looked like after taking your advice.

The good news is that I have not peed on the stove since early February. I use my kitchen litter box on a regular basis (and also use the other one that is elsewhere). Bailey and I have stopped having major arguments because my folks followed your advice about playtimes and learned about cat body signals so they could intervene before things got out of hand. We do have the occasional squabble on the floor (rather than with one of us being up higher than the other) but they are quite minor and we are soon back to playing again. And I no longer prowl and yowl throughout the night.

So now my purrson would like to remove the pots from the stove. She did remove some parts but is afraid that leaving the stove bare might inspire me to revert to my old ways. What do you advise?

Bear-y Good News!

Dear Readers, From time to time a troubled cat who has contacted me, apprises me of his or her progress. You may remember, Bear, the stove-top pee-er who was having stand offs with his sister, Bailey (see blog entry, The Stove Top Pee-er, 2/25/20) ? His latest news is like a waft of aromatic vole on a spring breeze to me. Read on!

The Stove Top Pee-er

Hi Greyce, I am a handsome black cat who you've mentioned in your entry, The Pungent Scents of Comfort. Urine Marking #1 (1/10/10). That's me on the right, along with my bossy sister, Bailey. I have been troubling my folks with a penchant for stove top peeing. And yes, my urine was tested so I know an infection is not the cause of my problem.

The stove is gas. Mostly I used the top as a toilet (but only for peeing). Yes, I have a litter box which has been roughly in the same location since I was a kitten and I continued to use it (doing 'the usual' - dig, squat, pee and cover - but I do like to dig down to China first). I rebelled when the folks changed litters to one of those pearl-types because I didn't like its feel on my paws; it was then that I discovered my enjoyment of stove top peeing. I was able to revert to my previous and much-prefurred-by-my-folks' habit of using the litter box. Basically, they made the stove top inaccessible to me and found a more acceptable litter for me to use. And all was fine.

Alas, I reverted! There could be many causes. I've developed asthma and my coughing fits are anxiety-provoking to me. I'm a sensitive guy you know. And there have been times when my bossy sister, Bailey, perched on top of the kitchen cupboards looking directly over the stove top and we'd have a stand-off. After such an altercation, I have been known to leave a small piddle of urine (only a teaspoon or tablespoon at a time) on the stove.

In periods of high anxiety I have peed on quilts and pillows but mostly I stick to smooth flat surfaces like tile, counter tops and the beloved stove top. I admit it, I have had a good run at peeing on the stove but I am reforming. And I wonder if you'd share the tips you gave me with other readers who may be in the same situation.

Here's to peeing in the litter box! Bear